Newbie help with No.12 cooker

Discussion in 'Stove Forum' started by spud13, Feb 10, 2016.

  1. presscall

    presscall United Kingdom Subscriber SotM Winner

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    What a thorough job and a fine set of photos.

    John
     
  2. shagratork

    shagratork United Kingdom Moderator Subscriber

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    I agree totally with John.
    A nice stove and well photographed.
     
  3. OldGreyDog

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    Great stove, and you made a nice job of fettling it. My first real stove is one of these and one of the threads linked to above refers. I'm sure it will be more than up to the job when you use it 'in the field'. I used mine wild camping last summer at about 1800m altitude and in wind up to about 50km/h and on one occasion in driving rain - the wind-shields work very well indeed. These stoves also use very little fuel, so you are unlikely to run out during a cooking session.

    I would also recommend the matching stainless steel pan-set that matches the stove - you can sometimes find them on ebay or from army surplus stores.

    One small thing to watch for is the small steel pump retaining loop breaking off (its only soft-soldered on). Mine came adrift while I was test-firing it, but does not affect the performance of the stove and with masses of help and advice on here, got it mended with no problems (I also had at least two very generous offers to mend it for me).

    Here's a link:

    https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/help-solder-silver-braze.29295/#post-299342
     
  4. spud13

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    Thanks old grey dog for the advice and link regards the retaining clip, I'll definitely keep an eye on it. As for the pans, If it's the ones that just fit in snug and the lid doubles as a shallow pan, I did also invest in a set :lol: as couldn't resist.

    One thing though, I am struggling to get the silent burner to work efficiently from a cold start up. I.e. if I prime the heater pan with Metholated spirits (brim it) let that burn all most out and then turn the stove on I only get yellow flames or spluttering. To get it working for the photographs above I needed to first run it on the standard burner cap, heat the silent burner up by placing it almost over it, then when heated up enough swap them over and re-light ASAP. Then it runs like a dream.as per photos.

    I have tried lettings the meths burn of and run the silent cap under yellow flame in an attempt to heat it up, but all I get is soot..... and lots of it....

    Am I doing something wrong?
     
  5. spud13

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    And finally as mentioned how it will be used in my landrover. WP_20160224_20_20_15_Pro.jpg
     
  6. presscall

    presscall United Kingdom Subscriber SotM Winner

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    It doesn't sound like you're doing anything wrong with the priming.

    You said at the outset that you have a 'dawg' silent burner converter cap but it doesn't look like the one I have for the No.12 and has a brass mount on it? It's evidently a cap that works, but with all that metal in it maybe takes a couple of primes to get it hot enough to vapourise properly, especially on diesel.

    Here's a Bernie Dawg 'Top Dawg' converter cap for a No.12.

    image.jpg

    image.jpg
     
  7. spud13

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  8. presscall

    presscall United Kingdom Subscriber SotM Winner

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    I don't know who makes those (South Korean?) but all that metal in it will account for the laborious priming, having to get all of it up to vapourisation temperature.
     
  9. spud13

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    Oh well you win some and loose some as they say... but I have really enjoyed fettling an old stove back to all most new and as an absolute beginner I am happy with the results. I am also sure I am catching the bug for these types of stove.
     
  10. presscall

    presscall United Kingdom Subscriber SotM Winner

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    You made a great job of the restoration and the flame pattern's excellent.

    Looking forward to more projects!

    John
     
  11. OldGreyDog

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    Thats a nice tidy setup in your Landy', the wind and rain wont trouble you there, and the windshields will make great heat shields. My No.12 has the standard burner and i'll likely keep it that way. However I can see your logic in the modification, particularly for an in-vehicle application. It looks as though cause of the lighting-up difficulty has been identified - no matter what the problem is, if there is an answer - this forum is where it will be...
     
  12. spud13

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    Ok so my final last question... well on this topic until I get another stove ;).

    Priming. At present I have been removing the fuel tank and burner, using a Swedish plastic fuel bottle that came with a their army Trangia style cooker. Filling the priming pan, carefully putting it back in the stove then using a match to light the pan... not sure this is the best way. I have thought about using a empty zippo fuel can with a small spout, filling that with meths, so I can fill it in situ but happy and cheeky to see how others fill the primer pan as space is tight. I usually end up spilling it using the bottle I have at the moment. So all pointers and advice welcome.
     
  13. presscall

    presscall United Kingdom Subscriber SotM Winner

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    Here's what I use for tricky access for priming, a Trangia fuel bottle with a suitable length of plastic pipe stuck up one of the outlet spouts.

    image.jpeg

    image.jpeg
     
  14. z1ulike

    z1ulike United States Subscriber SotM Winner

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    @presscall

    You should try one of these 250 cc Flight Leader Fuel Tite bottles for getting into tight spaces. I had the same Trangia bottle set up as you but switched. The Fuel Tite bottles are easier to control, smaller, and cheaper. They're not available in the USA so I had to pay up for shipping from the U.K. and they were still worth getting. They have a brass nozzle that twists open and closes securely without leaks. Try them you'll like them.

    Flight Leader.jpg

    Ben
     
  15. teckguy_58

    teckguy_58 United States Subscriber

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    Hi spud13,

    It is recommended once the preheating is complete to start the burner on a low setting to warm it up a bit more. There is lots of brass in this silent cap so it take a while to get it up to proper heat to vaporize the paraffin.

    Here is a video showing this cap on the No 12 stove. It compares the No 12 with the roar and then with the Taiwan silent cap.



    Cheers,
    Norman
     
  16. Rangie

    Rangie Subscriber

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    Great advice above for long reach spirit bottles.

    What I use is a "Snoop" leak detector bottle, very common in my industry. Holds a reasonable volume, the cap unscrews and you can pull a 10-12" long tube out of the bottle to reach hard-to-find spirit cups. I use it with some stoves but in particular pressure lanterns which have non-standard glasses without holes/windows to reach spirit cups.

    SNOOP.jpg

    Alec.
     
  17. spud13

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    Just had a look at the "Snoop" Leak detector bottle and in the UK it is (drum roll) ... ... ... £45.57 + £6.49 UK delivery

    OUCH!!!. (unless I am looking in the wrong place)

    I think the "flight leader fuel tite bottle" @ £4.99 is my best option.... or John's idea of a hose on a Trangia bottle even cheaper :D/
     
  18. kerophile

    kerophile United Kingdom Subscriber

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  19. spud13

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    Cheers, Kerophile, great read and advice from the links you provided, resulting in a ordered from Amazon. So should be here tomorrow.

    Hopefully this will assist with a more direct burn and thus heating of my silent cap. Once fitted, I'll test and report back.

    I must say this site is keeping me vary busy :D/

    Best Regards

    Mark
     
  20. spud13

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    Ok so as per advice from kerophile, I have added the stove rope to the primer cup. And it works a dream. The burn runs longer and as mentioned heated the silent cap up more. Yippeee!

    WP_20160226_16_02_02_Pro.jpg