@presscall John, mate, WOW. Very impressive. Thanks you for the "Howdedodat" as well. I look forward to seeing that one. Si
First time seeing a nickel plated 123 as well. Nicely done! I'd no idea nickel plating was practicably achievable at home, great work. I second the comment about the cool old battery charger. John's posted enough photos and videos of his stoves in use, questioning his bona fides as a stove user must be unserious at best.
@Graham Johnson Yes, it puts out 12 or 6 volts DC by clipping a 5-amp fuse in one or the other of either voltage’s fuse clip. I use 12 volts to make the electrolyte using two nickel electrodes and 6 volts using a nickel rod for the anode (+ve) and the workpiece as the cathode (-ve). I read somewhere that as low a voltage as possible creates the greatest surface density of plating.
@presscall Have you tried a benchtop power supply? If we were neighbors I'd loan you mine. Maybe a model train transformer turned low.
@Marc Hiya Marc. I’m thinking, “My battery charger - on a bench while I’m using it - so, a benchtop power supply?” But I guess you mean one of those well-regulated variable output science lab big boxes? With my first forays in plating I’d have used 12 volts to make the electrolyte then went straight to plating without thinking to drop the voltage, only later reading that recommendation to use as low a voltage as possible. I don’t recall there being any discernible difference in the quality of the plating, but have followed the advice since nevertheless. Amps drawn vary depending on proximity of the anode to the workpiece (I move one or the other to get the coverage required over the contours) but peak is probably 3 amps, so if a model train transformer could cope with that I’m sure that would be an option too.
@presscall Aye sir that's what I meant, the well regulated box thing. Interesting about moving the electrode and workpiece to get good coverage. Neat stuff, thank you again for sharing.
On a bit of a roll, I decided to nickel-plate a 123R I use with a Sigg Tourist pot set. First (and most laborious) job was to get the tarnish off the stove. A plating bath later. So that’s two 123R’s now.
Impressive, If I had one, I'd want to put a Dark Hard Anodized finish on the Cup. Or just shoot it with Black header paint. I know how to do the latter.
I've heard that nickel plating is very difficult, unlike copper plating or tin plating. Your nickel plating is at an industrial product level. I'm always amazed by your skills.
@Camp numao Thanks for the compliment, which is high praise indeed from someone who’s skills I admire. The electrolyte loses its effectiveness after a few sessions, so has to be made afresh quite often, but other than that and some ingenuity to equally present all parts to the component to be plated to the nickel anode to get even coverage, it’s not been difficult. As with lead soldering and silbrazing, getting the component spotless and grease-free takes most effort.
