Still struggling with this. The oring that I got from the hardware store was just too thick in the walls and kept sucking on the way out, even with the cutout in the washer. So I ordered a new o-ring that matched the original dimensions. It was as useless as the shrunken original. No surprise there, it was the same size. I went back to the larger ring and made my cutout bigger. I had to remove the outer washer to get a cut at the depth that I think I needed, which was easy given how loose the washer was. I also removed the inner washer with some pliers, why I don't remember, but afterward it would no longer pump (but maddeningly would still suck). Either I distorted it with the pliers, or the washers are too loose to be effective. Either way I've pretty much given up on the o-ring design and am looking at my leather options. When I find a donor shaft and cup I'll give it a go. Closest leather I have on hand is from a Brit. No. 2, but its a bit too big. I don't think I have a question here, just more venting. Thanks.
The two washers slip over the narrow end of the shaft, and the tip end appears to have just been peened to retain the washers. The outer/lower washer(notched) I was able to slip off with my hand as it had a fair bit of play. The inner/upper washer (not notched) took the force of some pliers to remove. You can see that I have started to narrow the inner step of the inner washer in an attempt to use it as a backing for my No. 2 leather cup. I'm not quite there yet.
Thermos used an Oring pump on much of their stuff, and if you put in an Oring too thick, you will get that suckage thing happening. Oring needs to have some slop in there. I would buy a bunch of different Oring and keep playing.
That's what the notch was for, to let air out on the way back (proven solution by other members) but I get your point. I think I've commited myself to the leather conversion at this point given how much I have jacked up the rings, but I may give it another try.
When the pump is depressed the ring presses against the upper washer, and should seal to create the pressure. When it is withdrawn the ring pulls against the lower ring, so the notch there is supposed to let air out. The original seal had raised knobs on it preventing it to seal on the way back. At one point it was working but my notch was not deep enough and my ring was too thick, so it would pump but had a hard time releasing air.
Hello @elcarlstono . Try using silicon spray releasing agent(will last a reasonable time) on the original "O" ring and pump tube prior to use or marine sticky grease which will last quiet some time. Hope that helps. John
Continuing down my leather conversion as the washers are shot at this point. I got the back washer ground down to where it would serve as a backing for the leather cup, then I fashioned a retaining washer for inside the cup. Looking like this: All well and good except the friction fit of the washer (steel) on the brass pump rod wasn't enough to stand up to the pumping action when the assembly hits the limit on the upstroke and after 4 or 5 strokes it pops off. I either need more peening or maybe a dot of JB Weld to get it to hold. Regardless, this isn't an easily re-serviceable solution. Also the leather is too big so lots of wrinkles on the inside and I wasn't actually pumping anyway. I supposed I need to trim some length off the leather. The adventure continues...
You're getting there. Would a bit of solder hold that? I use old boot leather for cups, and my leather is quite thinner than what you show. Wrinkles, are they gonna bother anything? Many (most?) of the cups I make are not beautiful.
Thought about solder, but I'm worried about how the leather will stand up to the heat. I have to solder with everything in place. How I'm going to keep the leather oil off of the surfaces is another issue for both solder or JBW. I assumed wrinkles were keeping me from building pressure, otherwise I don't care what it looks like. However now that I think about it the back of the cup should be building plenty of pressure. I have some other issue. Maybe the NRV is stuck.
Leather is already oiled. I'll have to pull it apart and clean everything really well, but I still think the leather will burn from the solder iron.
I don't know if Phoebus 625 part fit there but I have found that if you need it. new pump for phoebus 625 | eBay
Leather cup was indeed wrinkled and this time it had slipped over my retaining washer. On another note the pump from my 00 fit it perfectly. My options just opened up!
New approach to this problem. Another member sent me a pump shaft from a 96 or a 00, whatever (left). I noticed the knob end was threaded so I actually changed gears and decided I would swap this shaft with the one on my 111T (not pictured), then use the o-ring one from my 111T for the Shmel repair. The knob was being stubborn on the 111T so I heated it hoping to free it up, but it wasn't threaded and just popped off (soldered). No big deal to repair, and it gave another idea, as follows: 1. Leave the 111T as it is. 2. Heat the Shmel pump (right) and remove the knob. 3. Cut the threaded end off the 96/00 shaft (left, again), and to length. 4. Solder the Shmel knob onto the 96/00 shaft. This sounded good in theory until I heated the Shmel. I applied heat to the shaft and with pliers pulled at the knob. It didn't budge. I may not have heated it enough but I had a bad experience heating a shaft with a reserve cap on the knob exploding and now I'm a bit shy applying heat to something that may have some void space in it with no outlet. Or maybe it's threaded, but it also is resisting attempts to unscrew. Anyone know how these shmel pumps knobs are assembled?
Look like a place for a wrench there. If you add a letter bit of penetration oil with the handle up side down on the shaft , you may see something. Then a pipe wrench with leather on shaft and key will tell you the rest. Look like we will learn something from that.
