Hey guys, I just spent the last couple hours researching your site and forums on my lil camp stove here. I am 22 years old, and just getting into the whole camping/hiking/canoeing thing here in bc, and my parents passed on their old optimus 8r camp stove . Unfortunetly it hasn't been used in 10 or so years. Judging by what i've read and seen after i took it apart, the seals are done, as well as the wick and probably the leather seal inside of the flame adjustment needle. Anyone know the proper adjustment for the pintle? is it as simple as putting the key all the way to one side and then having the needle poke up through the jet? since i've put it back together it just doesn't seem to be working quite right. The how-to on replacing the wick was very well done, i'll disassemble the unit again and make sure that part is ok. All that has been used in the stove is coleman white fuel. Anything else i can do for cleaning, replacing parts? If there has been anything i havent mentioned, please by all means go for it, i would appreciate it. regards, Brad
Hello, Brad, Welcome to CCS!! One thing that I might suggest is to slow down, just a little. Rather than trying to replace everything at once, do things one at a time. That way, you will know, for sure, when you find the real cause of your problems. First thing I would do is rinse out the tank with Meths. Give it a good filling and shake it all around, then dump out the tank and fill it again. Now, put your neat little 8R down, and go watch TV, or better yet, spend a few hours checking the old stove catalogs on this site! After your tank has had a chance to "soak" for a few hours, give it the "shaken, not stirred" treatment, again, and then dump the contents. Now, before you do anything else, check the fuel cap gasket to see if it's still really soft and pliable. HERE is where you're going to find one of the most common causes of stove performance problems. If the gasket is hard, or looks to be getting hard, replace it, with one made of Nitrile rubber. If you can get the sheets of rubber, you can make one for yourself. If not, then contact Basecamp, if you're from the UK, or A&H, if you're from the US, and order a couple of gaskets from them. I happened to call in an order for parts myself, just today, and I know that A&H will have it in my Post box in the next few days. Once you've replaced your gasket, then fill your tank with fresh Coleman fuel, and make sure you don't OVER fill the tank. While you're filling it, leave it on a flat surface. When the fuel is almost up to the bottom of the filler tube, stop filling it! Like most stoves, the 8R need air in the tank for best performance, and too much fuel will almost always spoil the works. Ok, so far, so good. Now, if you have an eyedropper, use it to remove a little fuel from the tank, and then fill up the spirit cup, which is under the burner. Once it's almost full, check to make sure your fuel cap is on tight, and then light the fuel in the spirit cup with a match, or lighter. Let it burn until it's "almost" out, then crack open the spindle of your burner, just a little. You should see flame from the burner. If not, then use a match to light the gas coming out of the jet. Let the stove warm up, just a little bit, before opening up your spindle more. Then, realize that if you open it up all the way, it will probably go out, as you have just raised the cleaning needle into the jet!! So, find the "sweet spot", and that's where you will get your best performance, when your stove is wide open. A couple of things to check: -if you see a small flame at the spindle nut, tighten the nut, just a little bit, to close that off. -if you're still not getting any good, blue flame, then you need to turn the spindle all the way to the left, cleaning the jet. -if all that still doesn't help, then, and only then, should you start thinking about checking, or possibly changing, the wick. You have already read the good directions for performing that task, so I'll not go over it again. One last thing to check, is the cleaning needle height. Even brand new stoves can arrive to your house with the needle poorly adjusted. I have had about a dozen new stoves that came that way. So, performance is poor, until you readjust the needle. To do this, unscrew your burner basket, and remove it. Then, use your key/wrench, to remove the jet from the burner body. Set that aside in a safe place. Then, gently turn the spindle to the left, using your key, or adjustment rod, until the needle gets to the top of it's track. Use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove it. You may have to jiggle it some, to get it to come out, but it will do so. Then, close your spindle, by turning it all the way to the right. Now, replace your cleaning needle, making sure you don't bend, or break it, in the process. Gently, using your needle-nosed pliers on the base to hold it down, press down on the brass part of your cleaning needle, and slowly turn your spindle to the left. Count 1,2,3,4 "clicks" as the gears of the spindle click past the teeth on your cleaning needle. Once you have done this, turn your spindle to the right again, which lowers the cleaning needle into it's proper place. Now, replace the jet, and you should be ready to go. Give it another shot at lighting, and see how it goes. Doing these things, one thing at a time, will usually take care of 99% of the problems that any stove might have. Usually, the problem is in the fuel cap gasket, as I've mentioned, and replacing just that should make a really big difference in the stove's performance. That's about all I can think to tell you. I've never had any 8R need ALL that stuff, and most of them need either the gasket, the cleaning needle adjustment, or both. I've almost never needed to replace a wick, but then again, maybe I've just been super lucky! Enjoy your neat little 8R, and please let us know how it goes, getting it back up and running again! Take care, and God Bless! Every Good Wish, Doc Mark
Doc, just to make sure 4 or just 3 'clicks', does it make a difference? So far I've always done the latter, if only because that seems to work fine, so more out of habit than anything else. But maybe that way I'm leaving some unexplored stove potential unused ... Jur
Good Morning, Jur, How are you doing, Lad? Good to hear from you. According to the Optimus Maintenance Manual that I have on hand, they say, "turn the wheel to the left far enough to let 3 to 4 cogs pass....". I have always gone with the four clicks, for one reason only, it gives you more "throw" in the spindle, and not such a short turn when cooking and regulating your stove. In fact, I had one stove, a while back, that took 5 clicks, and still worked perfectly. So, I guess it's up to each individual stove. But, 4 clicks has always worked well for me, so that's what I always use. Good luck, and God Bless! Every Good Wish, Doc Mark
Thanks Doc, Ah, that's it the more clicks, the deeper the needle-thingy will be when the spindle is turned to the right (closed) and thus the longer it'll take after opening before it enters the jet, so the more 'throw' all in all the spindle has. OK, now I got got work to do putting all my R-stoves on 4 clicks.
Hey, Jur, Well, heck, give it a try, and see if it works as well for you as it has for me. Should do the trick, me thinks! How far is The Hague from Amsterdam? Doesn't look too far on the map. Maybe 50 kilometers? We're going to be visiting Amsterdam for a few days in Sept, on our way to a work gig in Turkey. We're going to try to meet up with Bart and his wife, Jessica, for a dinner, or something like that. Our schedule is sort of up in the air, as we will be traveling with friends/clients and will need to make sure that they are OK with any plans that are made. But, if it would work out, would you want to meet up, too? Let me know, and we can go from there. Talk to you later, and God Bless! Every Good Wish, Doc Mark
Good evening Doc, very new to this site and wish to ask your advice please as regards 8r stove. Have just taken delivery of new stove and after very first brew discovered stove would not close off . By trial and error and before reading the above, I dicovered the 4 click trick. I have also discovered that if I open the v/v more than 90 deg. the cleaning needle slips down and then again blocks the stove from shuttting down. I have now ordered a spares kit to replace the needle and spindle assembly. Will this do the trick or is this a common fault. Is there possibly a way to repair with say a keyhole file although I feel there is a bit too much space for the cleaning needle to move around. Have used a 111 on and off for 10yrs and had no probs. Would appreciate your advice kind Sir. Many thanks Thomas
Hi, Thomas, You have an interesting problem, there! When you have taken the cleaning needle out of your 8R, did you take a good look at the teeth on the side of it? It almost sounds as if the last tooth/cog, has been cast poorly, and is not making good, solid contact with the spindle teeth/cogs. Other than that, I have seen one stove in which the spindle, itself, was poorly made. Even though this spindle was brand new, the stove would NOT turn off, even though I did every adjustment I could think up. So, I replaced the entire spindle, and VOILA, it worked a treat. The only other thing I can think of is that, maybe when you are just starting to do your 4 clicks, the needle, itself, is not fully upright against the spindle teeth/cogs. That might make it misalign itself, or maybe not. Can't really think of anything else. I'd certainly check the cleaning needle, and then if that doesn't work, take out the spindle and check it out. Since you have an entire rebuild kit coming, you can always replace the lot, and see how that goes. I'll wager that it should work, at least after a complete rebuild. (One note: on the one stove that needed a completely new spindle, this stove, itself, was new! When I took out the spindle, I could not see one thing that really looked amiss. But, after several failed attempts to try and get the danged thing to turn off, I decided to replace the spindle anyway. That did the trick, and that stove has worked a treat ever since then. Go figure....) Sorry I can't be or more help that that, but best of luck beating your little beast into proper shape! Take care, and God Bless! Every Good Wish, Doc Mark
Many thanks Doc, appreciate the speedy reply. Looking closely at the cleaning needle/spindle cogs, I would say all in order but can only guess that the pitch of the cog teeth is possibly a small fraction out. Kit coming over the weekend so hopefully all will be well or this little beast will be winging its way back to the supplier. Many thanks once again, not been on here long but learning a whole heap of new tricks. All the best, ThomaS.
Doc, Thanks for all the valuable advice. followed what you said today and i just finally went out and fired it up! i havent seen this thing work that well in ages. i had to make a gasket for the tank cap, but that was no huge deal. The old one disappeared from 2 years ago when i had it apart last. reset the needle, fired it up, sounded good, got some yellow fire until i turned the key a lil bit more on then it was blue ever since. i think there's alot of crud from not being used so much, so this weekend i'm going to make it my goal to cook on it as much as i can. i think for good measure i will replace the leather seal on the pintle but there were no leaks while it was under pressure so maybe its still good? thanks again! i look forward to hanging around the forum. great site
Brad, Hanging around this site will be bad for your health. Look at Ian's flame thrower or some of the Frankenstove's that have appeared from people missing their meds. Send your nicely fettled stove to me and run while you can before the addiction sets in. Iain
Evening, Lads, Brad and Thomas, you guys are very welcome for any info that I passed along! That's what's so cool about this site! At CCS, all of us learn from each other, and all of us help teach each other! Where else will you find a great site like that? I have learned a ton since I became a member, and the learning will never stop, for any of us! Glad I could help, just as you will help others, after you've been here for a bit! Brad, congrats on getting your little guy back in the "blue", once again! Great little stove, the 8R, and it's neat that yours is back to it's old self! One thing, though. I would not mess with the spindle stuffing, unless it's leaking during use. And, even then, if you see a small flame, just take your wrench, or a separate one, if your stove doesn't have one, and give the stuffing box a bit of a turn to the right. That should take care of any leaking. Otherwise, you're just making work for yourself, that might not even need to be done. Just a thought. Thomas, I will look forward to hearing your report, once you've delved into your 8R a little more. They are really tough little stoves, and though they're not the "best" stove for everything, they really are pretty darned good for almost any situation, as long as you know them, and learn their foibles and such. I still think they are one of the most convenient stoves ever designed, and I like mine quite a bit. Think I have 5 regular 8R stoves, of various vintages; one Primus 8R, and one Optimus #8, the predecessor of the 8R. I LOVE these little guys, and can't stop buying them, when I see a good deal on one!! For both of you guys, again, welcome to CCS! You will find an outstanding bunch of Stove Mates here, nutters, every one of them!!!!! And, from them, just as have I, you will learn a ton of great stuff about stoves! Don't be hesitant about spending many hours pouring over the catalogs, and the other great and wonderful things that Ross (Spiritburner) has setup for us. And, also look at the Collector's Gallery, and the Action Gallery, too. Great photos in both of them! Even though I've seen all that's there, many times over, I STILL like to go back and check it all out again! So, have fun here, and come often. You'll enjoy the cerifiably insane Bunch of Stove Nuts that hang out here!! Take care, and God Bless! Every Good Wish, Doc Mark
i see you have some action shots folders but there's no picture of me in any of these lol so i'l l just post the couple i have. anyone think the flames are excessivly long for WOT? this guy i took right after i started the stove. oddly enough, the stove does not sputter at all in the sense it has liquid coming up through the nozzle, but is definetly not a smooth sounding stove. from what i've read this is pretty normal? |imgRemoved| boiling some water for coffee tonight |imgRemoved| lastly, i think i spent about an hour with some autosol and elbow grease. yes i have an obsession with shiny things i think its already too late for me to back out. |imgRemoved|
Hey, Tree! THAT is one fine looking 8R, Son!!!!! Yeah!! Ya' done GOOD!!! The flame is about as good as I've seen, and I would be very happy with such performance. I note that you also have the proper cap for use with the Optimus mini, and midi-pumps. Do you have one of those? If not, you should get one. They are very useful in helping to prime your stove, and when the temps drop WAAAYYY down there, they will keep your stove running great. In super cold weather, without the pump, your stove won't perform up to snuff. Oh, Brother Trevor is going to drool over your shots of that nice, shiny, 8R!!!! He, and Evil LOVE to make their stoves that pretty!!! \ Great job, Brad!!! Thanks for sharing the photos, too. I can already see that you'll like it here, just fine! Take care, and God Bless! Every Good Wish, Doc Mark
i do have a midi pump yes. but the cap for some reason does not want to take the pump.. i think the valve is stuck closed. any way to access this and clean it?
Hi, Tree, I should be fast asleep by now, and so should you! But, here I am, waiting for an auction to end, so I can see if I won, or lost another stove. So, since nobody else is up at this hour, here goes... Yes, you can replace the NRV gasket in your fuel tank cap. Getting it out of there is the tricky part, but it can be done, with a little care. You will need to remove your fuel cap, of course. Then, grasp it round the outside of the cap, with a pair of pliers. You might want to use a bit of leather, or something else that will keep the pliers from marring the fuel cap edges. Then, while holding the cap tight, with the pliers, take another pair of pliers, similarly cushioned, and grasp the tube that sticks down from the inside middle of your fuel cap. Take it easy, as you don't want to ruin this tube!!! Grasping it all tightly, slowly, but firmly, unscrew the tube from it's attachment to the fuel cap. Once you have it off, you will see that it contains a spring, and also the rubber check valve of your NRV (non-return valve). If this rubber is hard, even around the edges, then it needs to be replaced. You can make one for yourself, but it's another tricky procedure. I am looking to see if I have one for Don Tom, if I have an extra one, I'd be happy to send it to you. But, your's may actually be OK. Sometimes, especially if your stove has been run with the wrong fuel, the valve just seals and sticks. Before you try disassembly, you might want to soak the cap in some WD-40 for a few days, and see if that loosens up your gasket. If that fails, try a good penetrating oil, like Maltby Penetrant. I've had outstanding successes with that stuff, in getting stuck NRV's open again. Once you either get your gasket unstuck, or replace it, you're back in business. Just remember not to OVER pressurize your 8R, or your could actually blow that safety gasket, and then you're in deep kimshee!!! Good luck, and God Bless! Every Good Wish, Doc Mark
Once again Doc, pls help me out You say Optimus 'mini' and 'midi' pump. What's the difference? Is the mini the straight one and the midi curved? BTW, I just happened to have applied your prescription (unkowing of that by then) for rejuvenating Optimus caps, in this case a (midi/mini) pump cap. The SV part of course is the same as in an ordinary cap, the pump valve part is similar to any ordinary pump valve. Only in my case the inner tube of the SV part was screwed in too far (by some earlier bodger?) to grab with a plier. This necessitated filing an ordinary (hexagon) Allen key down to a pentagon key to fit the tube's slot. No big deal, just take care that it fits well all round - these brass tubes are easily mangled. Inner parts can all be easily remade from nitrile / replaced by fitting appropiate springs. Screwing back the whole lot just hand tight was enough in my case. Cheers, Jur
Hey, Jur, Yeah, you have it right. The Optimus mini-pump is that small, straight pump that we all know and love. Works a treat! The Optimus midi-pump is the longer one that's got a bend at the end, which makes it easier to use when the stove is functioning. It also has a longer throw, so you don't need to pump that much to get good pressure. If I understand you correctly, you have an Optimus fuel cap that has the round cylindrical top, which mates up to the Optimus pump, but someone has replaced the inside tube with the shorter, regular NRV??? Wow, that's odd. I've never seen one like that, at least that I can recall. I am probably not understanding what you mean. Can you post some photos of what you're doing, so I can better see it? Very interesting. If anyone else has a better handle on this, please jump in. Take care, and God Bless! Every Good Wish, Doc Mark
Hi Brad Great phtos of a great little stove. Doc, of course, is completely off his rocker if he thinks I will drool about your beautiful, shiny, glorious stove. But if you show it again, I am getting on a plane to BC and am going to wipe you out! |imgRemoved|
thanks for the comments. i'm really taken with this lil stove. heh its way more entertaining to play with then a propane stove. and sounds way cooler! i retract my previous statement though, i have the "mini" pump and not the "midi" pump. i'll give unsticking it a go though. gotta try the easy things first trevor, BC is a big place good luck
