Optimus 111 - how to change leather washer pump?

Discussion in 'Fettling Forum' started by IvarS, Jan 29, 2016.

  1. IvarS

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    I am a big fan of 111 and always bring one for my skiing with tent in Northern Norway.

    So glad to find CCS and I would be glad to subscribe (but do not use PayPal yet). How?

    Just bought one 111 (ad in local paper), some maintainance and it is as good as new. Lots of these stoves in Norwegain outdoor-families still (seldom used).


    Few questions:

    -How do I change the leather washer? Found it a bit tricky? (see below)

    -I changed the graphite packing; and had a small yellow flame. Smart to tighten up a bit when stove is warm?

    -Grease in the pump; is there a chance for the grease to pass thtough the NRV?

    -No cleaning inside the tank? Is kero or methylated spirit good? (and of course no citric acid)

    -Any `masterclass` for 111-series here? (or what is the name / I am New here at CSS)

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  2. kerophile

    kerophile United Kingdom SotM Winner Subscriber

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    Hi Ivar. Have a look at this general post on pumps and how they work:

    https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/typical-pump-assembly.14026/

    This is a tool I use to dismantle and reassemble the pump piston:

    https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/opinel-pump-washer-tool.28029/

    One of our members, Sefaudi, makes and sells the best pump leathers in the civilised World.

    However, your pump leather looks good. If you were to oil it, and then spread the leather cup a little before refitting it in the cylinder, it should be good for a long time.

    Best Regards,
    Kerophile.
     
    Last edited: Jan 29, 2016
  3. kerophile

    kerophile United Kingdom SotM Winner Subscriber

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    Hi, in answer to the rest of your questions:

    You are right about the small flame from the packing gland. Just tighten slightly so the flame goes out, then check that the spindle can still turn easily.

    As long as there is not an excessive amount of grease in the pump cylinder it should be OK to stay there. There is dead space at bottom of the cylinder which the piston never reaches, so the grease will not be displaced.

    If you rinse the tank with kerosene, and the kero comes out clean after a couple of rinses you are good to go. If the tank still shows debris you can use degreaser and water to clean futher, then final rinses with clean water and finally meths, before allowing to dry before filling 3/4 full with kero to run the stove. Remember to always start with approx. 1/4 air space above the fuel in the tank.

    I don't know of a special masterclass on Op. 111 stoves, but there sure are a great number of posts! Just do a Site Google search on the term.

    Best Regards,
    Kerophile
     
  4. IvarS

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    Thank you very much Kerophile (I have noticed you got knowledge about nearly everything when it comes to stoves).

    For me; the tricky part is to get the leather-cup placed between the two nuts. The hole in leather is smaller than the nut (the nut under the leather on picture). I saw your excellent tool (the knife), but I am not able to stretch the leather on to the nut...

    -By the way; is it a good thing to store leather (and these o-rings) in a small plastic-bag when not in use?

    -I have read about Sefaudi and his leather. How to get in touch (I am new on CCS and do not know how to)

    -Who to contact about subscrition. Would be happy to give something back.



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  5. kerophile

    kerophile United Kingdom SotM Winner Subscriber

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    Hi Ivar, the centre holes in the leather washers are sometimes too small. I have stretched them using a tapered spike in the past, or even enlarged the hole by turning the washer whilst having a sharp knife in the hole!
    Here is a link to Sefa's ebay advert:

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5-PUMP-CU...767482?hash=item3f0231f2ba:g:EhkAAOxyqOxRwFgC

    Once you are a CCS subscriber you can get some discount on your purchase.

    Yes it is a good idea to store leathers in oil in a plastic bag or old 35mm film plastic container.

    Here is a link to the CCS subscription information:

    https://classiccampstoves.com/index.php?account/upgrades

    Best Regards,
    Kerophile.
     
  6. snwcmpr

    snwcmpr SotM Winner Subscriber

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    One more thing. I see the other pump rod in the bag, and ....

    Kerry makes leather pump cup kits for the o-ring pump used on some 111s.
    https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/leather-pump-cups.27930/
     
  7. IvarS

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    Thanks a lot kerophile ! I have ordered from Sefaudi (he has got a good reputation in CCS, and hope he is doing fine i Turkey these days...). Stormy days on the coast of Norway these days, so stoves should be up and running...

    Thanks to you snwcmpr ! I prefer leather, guess that works better also in cold winter temperature, will check With Kerry.

    • Here is the burner I bought yesterday (ad in local paper), guess that is a 111 (am I right?).

    • If it was with two tubes it would be 111 B (right?) and only for gas (which I will avoid when using tents). I guess these burners are really meant to last and meant for Kerosene only?

    (I had a 111 with black fuel tank (111 C?) and that burner started to leak and I guess not easy to silbraze. And no brass fuel tank...)


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    Testing the single burner. Runs well by my opinion. No need for repairing here. I guess I should avoid any oil in packings due to heat in burner. OK with a few drops oil on fuel cap and pump cap?
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    ...and the Complete stove (from yesterday), is this a 111 origianl? I thought I did not like the roarer burners, but I grew up with parents using them when we were outdoor. Tested now and just fine. Now I have to think twice about the roarer.

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    - - -

    Here is the one I bought few days ago, I am sure this is Optimus 111 T and for years my favorite. It all started with repairing my one 111 T (trying to find spare parts), and now I have 4 Optimus 111 T and one 111 (I guess)

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  8. kerophile

    kerophile United Kingdom SotM Winner Subscriber

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    Hi, Ivar you have some lovely stoves in good operating condition. The new burner is certainly an Op.111 roarer.

    The spindle packing on these regulated burners is graphite, which in an excellent lubricant, so you don't need oil or anything else.
    A touch of oil on the filler and pump cap is OK but not really needed as kerosene is a good lubricant.

    I too fitted a roarer burner to an Op.111 T recently:

    https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/optimus-111t-fitted-with-roarer-burner.31255/

    You damaged silent burner can probably be repaired by some delcate silver-soldering and this would be worthwhile. You can get advice on the Forum, or if you dont feel confident perhaps one of our members could help.
    You will not be disappointed with Sefa's leather washers as they are great.

    Best Regards,
    Kerophile.
     
  9. IvarS

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    I really have to think twice about the roarer;

    • It seems very solid and reliable (even more than 111T?)

    • Risk of underburning is eliminated.

    • Very easy to fill up meth for preheating, excellent idea with a meth-tube.

    • Not that noisy (as I remembered from childhood).

    • I noted the regulating key got quite warm when stove burns (compared to the newer on 111 T). Good idea not to keep it on the spindle while burning?

    I will keep my silent burner and find one who can silbraze it. Not urgent as I now have stoves for winter-skiing (that is how it started for me).

    Now I do understand CCS members beeing fascinated by old stoves; so reliable, parts could be fixed and repaired. Seems to me; the older stoves (at least when it comes to 111) the better!?


    I like to see pictures here (better than only writing to explain); dear members of CCS, please add pictures. Guess I am not the only one who wants that.

    So here is one of my 111T, kind of green box. Used (less though) by the Norwegian Army. One detail about this burner; the outer flame spreader is fixed to burner. I have been told; that happen after someone stumbled upon a stove (in a tent) and this outer flame spreader fell off. After that incident the Army asked them to make this kind of flame spreader; fixed.

    Now; a cup of tea! Have a nice weekend folks!

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  10. snwcmpr

    snwcmpr SotM Winner Subscriber

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    Very nice stoves.
    When I suggested Kerry's leather cups, I did not mean as a substitute for Sefaudi's cup. Rather I meant it as a substitute for the o-ring pump assembly.

    Ken in NC
     
  11. IvarS

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    Thanks snwcmpr - I got you point, I have ordered from Sefaudi. For me the most important thing is to have a few stoves operative for the outdoor I love so much. I do not like o-rings, so I will replace them (on my spare pumps with o-rings). So I guess I am a `user` more than a collector of these stoves, but now I have started to look for good 111-stoves in Northern Norway. I grew up with the roarer (my parents had it and used it a lot). They seem so reliable.

    How is the interest / use of the 111 in US?
     
  12. snwcmpr

    snwcmpr SotM Winner Subscriber

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    I have at least 8 111s.
     
  13. IvarS

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    OK, so in general (not only about enthusiastiCCS) the 111 is well known `over there`? I have decided (so far) to be with 111`s. An old woman gave me a Høvik Standard 37, I promised that it would be well treated. Not sure to keep it or not. Is that stove something for CCS-members? There is something about these stoves that the 111 miss. For tenting and skiing there is only one for me...
     
  14. Tony Press

    Tony Press Netherlands Subscriber

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    @snwcmpr

    You said "I have at least 8 111s". :-$, keep your address secret...

    Cheers

    Tony
     
  15. snwcmpr

    snwcmpr SotM Winner Subscriber

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