You have your Optimus 8R in front of you, so what now? This article now appears on the main site in the Fettlers Workshop
Ian Your photo instruction manual is absolutely outstanding. The process you have described and shown has been mentioned a number of times in a variety of threads. Now that you have shown the process from start to finish, it is all now clear. I propose that demos like this should be stored in a separate section of CCS - is that possible, Ross?? Lets have more fettling processes like this. Ian - are you going to complete this with nipple and cleaning needle removal, etc?
No bloody way, mate. I'm fish food, me ... or at least a puff of smoke and some ash! None of that 'hole-in-the-ground' stuff for me. The wife has her instructions !! Suppose I should start enjoying me self though, eh. Tempus Fugit and all, what ? Spudz
cracking post ......... thanks ian could add same basics apply for 123 , 71 ,80 russian 8r clone etc ...small self pressurising petrol stoves. great post ... time & pictures well taken..... & appreciated .. cheers
Stupid question? Not at all! The wick does what wicks do - it wicks fuel to the burner. This is definitely an asset at the time of lighting when there is little pressure built up in the tank and the fuel needs all the help it can get to get to the burner. This is more obvious in the upright petrol burners such as Svea123 and Primus70 or 71. Simultaneous with delivering fuel to the burner it also restricts the fuel flow and reduces the chances of a large volume of relatively cool petrol overpowering the burner and causing a flare-up as pressure within the tank increases. The wicking action also enables what is, at the end of the day, a tiny tank to be run almost dry before the stove stops. Running the stove dry is not the ideal way to go as it results in a charred wick which will not work as well as it ought, if at all, but there's no telling what circumstances might require. A screen (presumably a mesh roll?) inserted in the delivery tube may well provide a degree of restriction and will also help the heating up of the tank but I think it might not have anything like the wicking capabilities of a fibre wick.
Ian You are right. I tried a gauze mesh instead of a wick but only could get to burn down to the last 1/4 tank. I made a wick but it 's not like yours. The one in mine now is like this too but more like cooton wool effect. Someone else probably made it I found that the 'original" wasn't pushed in far enough either.Finally. I thinkthe wick being back a bit from the end lets a glob of fuel though and makes it flare up a bit like you say. I made a new one and had it tight in the shaft and up as far as it would go. Couldn't get enough fuel though then. Back to the original but a tad thinner and hard up in the shaft. When the wire went all the way in thats when I realised that it probably wasn't set right. works a treat. Read the thread on wicks before. Now I can see how I should have made it!! See how pictures make so much difference to some. O-Ring A thread says you can use a nitrile o-ring. Went to town and got an oring the best fit I could. Had to wrap an amount of PVC tape around the inner bit it to make it work. No one said a FLAT NITRILE WASHER. Pictures again FInally if you a made enough to drill/hone rip tear out a jet to make an alcohol jet and you end up with a huge hole then you can make a needle like this instead of the cleaner tip and reduce the effective orfice size. mine ended up 0.026" so a 0.018" needle made an effective 0.020" jet size. It works but a real one maybe better. Hope this helps some one and belongs on this thread here somewhere. Great Doco on this and keep it up. I will finally understand this stuff with out my own cojecture and interpritation of the written word. Could I suggest a Problem / Fix and Why referance Whens the CD coming out I think I would buy one.
