I still think this sounds like a leak somewhere. Have you done the dunk test? I've only used the pump per the early '70s instructions. Caveat with those is only to give a couple of pumps with the stove 3/4 full. The idea is to create about the same amount of pressure in the airspace as will occur with normal heating. Another thought: Is the burner bell tightly screwed onto the valve assembly? I seem to recall another case like this where the threads didn't mate well, and there was insufficient heat transfer to the tank. But with that pot on the stove, I would think there's enough heat going to the tank. ....Arch
Good suggestions by Arch. And prompts another -- what happens if you use a slightly larger diameter pot, the idea is to reflect more heat. Usually, the advice is to avoid prolonged use with a large fry pan due to too much reflected heat. Finally, has the source or type of fuel been mentioned/discussed already? The last video -- those spurts of yellow or red flame have sometimes been attributed to moisture contamination. note: in case I wasn't clear -- I would not trust the accuracy of the ChatGPT history I posted above. I was just having fun with it.
Well thank you everyone and I am going to feel like an idiot here but that lack of pressure after 20 minutes or so was caused by low fuel If run flat out from the level I was using around 3/4 the level dropped down just below the pipe. Also the fuel I am using system 20 s200i/5 fast drying when compared with a tank of petrol the petrol gave 3x the roar and boiled water quick as hell. During the same 20 minutes and even burned a bit longer and hit 23-24 minutes. So going to try another fuel as apparently petrol is not recommended
Many times issues are from the user, not the stove or lantern. White gas/Coleman Fuel\camp fuel etc. Duane PS: Also, running a stove that uses a wick can scorch the wick if it runs out of fuel, but I have only read that may be the cause for a wick showing blackening near the burner.
