Happy Easter All, Picked up this Optimus 99 this week. The lid to the fuel tank was missing, I am using the lid from an Optimus 155W Marine (that also followed me home today.) The lid has a really good seal, I am using Shellite (white gas) As you can see by the video it has the splutters, lights well then this develops. [media=youtube]JPElf7FmnoQ[/media] Fingers crossed this will work Suggestion for a fix please? I am slowly learning patients but the lessons are many. While I am here, I would like to buy a set of NRV tools, I believe another member makes and sell them. cheers Sooty B Fingers "who just has to stop going out and letting new pets follow her home"
My 99 which looked new when I got it did the same thing. I put in a new wick as the old one had been scorched, and a new viton filler cap gasket. I also binned the cleaning needle and found a replacement of the Olde Fashyndde style that works very well indeed. That damned self cleaning needle is a solution in search of a problem. Some engineer trying to impress other engineers. In any case, my 99 now burns like a blowtorch even though the orifice in the jet is off kilter a teensy bit so the flame is a bit stronger on one side than the other. In practice it makes no difference whatever. Heat is heat and the stove boils water and cooks food like the little chammpion it is. The slightly cockeyed flame just adds a touch of panache. I've had the same problem with Svea 123 R's until I removed the cleaning needle. My only stoves that run well with the self cleaning system are my 111B and an 8R. Have you considered the possibility that hanging off the bottom of the world like you do could adversely affect your stove? Turn it so it appears upside down and see how it runs. Gerry
Hi Sooty B you said - While I am here, I would like to buy a set of NRV tools, I believe another member makes and sell them. The NRV tools are made by Stu, Loco7stove. He has them advertised in the Members Services section. They are very good too! Steve.
I stripped down my recently acquired 99 the other day and the wick was very scorched. None of my stoves that come with an integral cleaning needle have them actually fitted, and they all run the better for it. Terry
G,,day Gerry. just because we are upside down , or down side up. only in fun. but I live in under down under!!! all in good fun. kerry
OK, So it may be the needle causing the problem, it has been suggest that I can go without the needle. A How do I get it out and leave it out, is that the whole block that works on the spindle that is left out or just the needle B If I have no needle will the stove still turn off. I always work on the principle of the dumbest question is the one you don't ask. So when you have collected yourselves from the floor I will be all ears, or in this case wide eyed cheers Sooty
Hi Sooty, Remove the jet and you will see the little needle fitted to it's rack. Turn the control spindle to the left and the complete needle and rack will rise up and can be lifted out. Replace the jet. The control spindle will shut off the stove and control the flame as normal. Of course, you will now need to use a little pricker needle to clean the jet if required. Regards, Terry
If that is the first tank of new fuel, I'd suggest just run it a bit and fill it up again. A small amount of moister in the wick (as might happen sans cap) could cause that effect. With a "new" old stove like these a few runs with proper dry fuel can make a difference.
G'day Sootyfingers, I had the same problem with an Optimus 80 which I bought off evilbay a couple of years ago & have since bought a British army # 7 stove case, that stove fired up weak just like in your video & kept chucking up little flakes of soot & partially blocking the jet, even despite my pressurising it with a mini pump. I sorted that one out by removing the rising tube & cleaning it out with welding tip cleaners & afterwards it fired up good, strong & heady. Both my svea 123R & the recently acquired british army # 7 off evilbay have flare ups whilst warming up, on my trusty Optimus 80, the flare ups aren,t nearly as bad owing to less metal to heat up, although young cadets would dive for cover until they got used to it & my cooking & brew ups. Sergeant Thornton 223, whoever you are, should you happen to read this post, just to let you know that your old stove is a good one & is in a good home. Happy easter to all=John. ----------------------- If in doubt, brew up.
Hi sooty, happy Easter. Here is a link on removing the cleaning needle. https://classiccampstoves.com/fusion/gallery/91/1219782425-Optimus_burners.gif
If you like you may take out the needle, the stove will burn a bit hotter without hassle, but I am almost shure this will not solve the sputting problem. A water moisten wick, a scorched wick or a wich fallen off the burner feeding tube give the simptoms you refer and show. I wouls suggest you unscrew the burner feeding pipe from the tank (best way is to block the hex nut on the tube near the tank in a vice, with alluminium foil wrapper on it MANY layers, to protect it, then grab the tank and unscrew (countee4clockwise- You will find in CCS all directions to make and install a new wick. Happy eater Orsoorso
Thanks for all your help, Today I cut a new seal for the lid from a plastic that was in the lid of orange juice container, it appears to be a temporary fix.I can get back to the shop for a viton one on Tuesday. Fired her up, naturally she spluttered and carried on but was stronger than the first and second firings. There is a good chance it was moisture in the tank and wick, it arrived without a lid and I had cleaned the tank up with the hole covered in plastic with a rubber band. While I am shopping I will get a mop for a new wick, do you use the wire that was in the old wick or should I fashion one for some stainless steel wire that I have? The longer it burned the more stable it became, I think we have the problem well on the way to being solved. I like simple solutions that are not too invasive, single steps, the best thing while I am learning. I think it is now out of fuel, it is jolly hard to know how much is left. My little finger only just fits in the hole, still can't feel when the fuel is at the base of the filling tube. I use a syringe (only thing I had) to fill the spirit cup, think I will try measuring the fuel going into the tank when I refuel. All a bit precious Once again Thanks for your help. cheers Sooty B Fingers
G'day sootyfingers, Sounds like you've got it sussed, one suggestion is to leave your stove out in the sun for a day with the cap off & valve open so as to vapourise anything in there, as to the wire, your stailess steel wire needs to be quite thin, similar to the wire on a mig welder. hopefully your next post will be of you making a pot of tea with the kookaburras watching on, wish I could join you, happy Easter=Johnno. --------------------- If in doubt, brew up.
When I made a new wick for my 123 which was sputtering I used a bit of telephone wire. Worked like a charm.
If the old wire is in good nick, I re-use it. If not I use copper electrical wire. If you don't actually need a new mop, it may be cheaper to buy a ball of 100% cotton string. The stuff used to tie up joints of meat is ideal. Hard to judge the fuel level in a 99 as the filler pipe extends into the tank making it very difficult to empty out. Easy to over fill. A drinking straw with a finger over the end is another useful way to fill a spirit cup. Terry
I've had a 99 and 8R, found the easiest way to get 'em filled to the right amount was to point the filler straight up, top 'em off, set a finger over the filler, and set them down. Remove your finger, and you'll find out the tank has "burped", and you've got the right amount of airspace to get 'er running spot on. Murph
When you buy the new mop head, be sure It's all cotton. Synthetics will melt. It sounds like you've figured out stove Fettling!
