Quenching an incandescent burner shouldn't cause any cracks in theory, but in reality it seems it sometimes can, I'm sure I recall a few reports on here of cracks occuring after 'heat and quench' decoking. Personally I'm perfectly confident quenching simble brass fabrications, but by the time they get to the complexity of a burner, let alone a regulated burner, I avoid if at all possible. The slightly lop-sided flame could still be a leak, but possibly the vapour jet is being fired off-centre through the burner spigot, favouring one side. Have you tried filling the tank with water, pressurising and observing the jet? It could be a warped burner assembly, affecting the alignment of nipple to spigot, on the basis that a replacement nipple didn't cure it. Alternatively, something could be wrong with the regulator housing casting, either from manufacture or warping, which means the nipple and rack don't line up properly, also throwing the vapour pattern out. Hope that makes sense?!
Two weeks on and I have confirmed that there is a slight skew in the output from the jetj towards the tank. This might be related to the problems I’ve had fitting a cleaning needle. Leaving the jet a little loose and trying to deploy the needle shows the needle trying to push up what appears to be the tank-side of the jet. Trying a further (new) jet to be sure makes no difference. A closer look shows that there is not a snug fit between jet and burner: The stove came with a steel washer under the jet. I put that back in place: and the needle situation improved: However it was not 100% reliable and the stove was prone to leaks around the washer and underburn. I think the conclusion looks like there is an underlying problem with the burner itself. I have removed the washer, applied some copper grease on the jet threads and resigned myself to running without the cleaning needle. Things are running clean enough that a regular pricker in the case should be sufficient - though replacing the jet without copper grease to hand would probably lead to leaks. Thank you again to everybody who has helped me along the way, it is much appreciated. -R
@IRM Well it's running (and regulating), that's almost a complete success. I'm sure you've considered this but a copper washer would be softer and may provide better 'bodge job' if you feel the need to try the cleaning needle again. Anyway well done for rescuing this burner, which many would have scrapped. All great experience and good learning for everyone here on the way!
What (inner) diameter washer should I be looking for? I’ve tried M8, which is what I think the steel washer it came with was but it leaves a noticeable amount of wiggle room. 5/16” is 7.94mm so is effectively the same thing. M7.5, 9/32” if such things exist? -R
The M8 copper washer helps indicate how… quirky this burner is. There appears to be a definite lean to one side: -R
@IRM M7 and open up to size with a round needle file? Or find some thin copper sheet and make your own? The mystery is... was the burner made like that, was it massively overheated in an attempt to repair or decoke it.... or did somebody mangle it trying to remove it without a spanner?
A new copper washer (filed out to fit), more copper grease, some harsh language and finally a new (kerosene) jet and this stove is finally working well - and as a bonus, with the needle installed: Thanks again to everybody who helped along the way. -R
Looking good. I have a 111 that a PO used wrong size spanner to work on the jet, resulting in I guess his causing the burner to be misaligned some with the flame to one side just a little and the mating surface on the burner where the jet touches having a gouge which I filed down a little. Duane
Nice to see your stove working properly. But can't help wondering why aren't these burners being built using alloys with higher thermal resistence? Like inconel 625 or at least stainless 304/316! Does thermal conductivity really matters that much in the design and principle of working in these burners/stoves? Brass has a higher thermal conductivitt than stainless 304/316 or Inconel 625
@Gabriel Lorin You're looking at a 50-plus-year old burner, substantially unchanged in materials or manufacturing methods since the paraffin pressure stove was introuduced nearly a century and a half ago, long before the existence of the materials you mention. It represents the cheapest material and method to mass-produce a burner at the time. It worked very well, and many burners gave many decades of daily service. New stoves are still being manufactured in the same way. I'd hazard that despite the high cost of brass, the ease of the production process and the simplicity of the design would still make a burner of this type a close financial competitor to something using the latest alloys. Other than financial, I can't see any benefit to the use of stainless steel. Have a look at some more recent paraffin/kerosene stove designs to see what materials and production methods are used- they will also show the cheapest way to produce a practially effective burner using the materials and production methods of the time. Despite having hung around this website I honestly can't help with the names of any 'modern' kero/paraffin stoves... odd things with seperate tanks I think... somebody will be along to help I'm sure. I stick to old brass stuff.
Well, I can't be hypocrite and must admit I use a Shmel-2 stove ,it's made of brass,the burner, and steel (tank) ,it's about 30 years old(estimate) and it works quite good(have no ideea how it worked when new)... And if a small hole appears after 40 tears of use or existance, well that's good enough for me But ,yes, heat conductivity of 304/316/inconel 625 is about 10 times WORSE than brass... That alone says it all! If the Shmel-2 burner would be exactly like how is now but out of Inconel 625, in theory I should preheat it 10 times longer than now ,in order to be able to vaporize liquid gasoline... I won't accept that Unless I always have acces to a oxiacetylene torch, but even then, the vaporization might not be able to sustain itself( I think/guess). I'm a strong supporter of the saying "if something works ,don't change it!". Brass is good enough
