Pressgas stove from former East Germany

Thanks Peter.

The removable riser tube?

You know, it doesn't seem to make a huge difference if raised or lowered five millimeters either way, though it would surely affect combustion badly if lowered to the extent that it was so close to the jet nipple that little air could get into the riser for the correct fuel/air mixture.

I expect that without it there'd be 'underburn' with silent burner caps, when the fuel/air column ignites before reaching the combustion space.

Of course, it's essential too to locate the silent burner caps centrally on the burner.

The BernieDawg converter cap runs a little rich on this stove, which I think is because the cap's in-built riser tube has a smaller internal diameter than the removable one on the Pressgas. That said, the converter cap was custom-built for a British No.12 stove, on which it generates perfect combustion.

John

 

A sequel.

I've been using a borrowed Taylors stove gauge and got around to repairing the gauge that came with the stove.

This was the original you'll remember: no indicator needle, no glass, slightly mauled innards ...




... and little remaining of the dial face




There was just enough to go on. Some key clues from the traces of paint on the dial face: units of measurement were kg/sq cm, the dial carried the functional description 'Manometer' and the maximum reading was 3 kg/sq cm. - which approximates to 3 bars or around 45 psi.

I handed the task to a graphics artist friend who spent a half-hour on his Mac to produce these






I asked him to print the dial faces on heavy-weight paper. I could have gone for laser decal paper but whereas a decal is essential for laying on a surface where the thinness of the decal is crucial, in this application that didn't matter and paper would be easier to apply to the metal dial plate, was cheaper and had the semi-matt finish I wanted rather than the glaze of the decal paper I have in stock.

Next job, making a new needle. I silbrazed a length of fine-bore brass tube (for the pivot shaft) to a length of fine-gauge brass rod (for the needle)




Tricky work with a Dremel, but a needle and pivot shaft resulted




I fitted it to the gauge and tweaked the bourdon tube mechanism to respond the right amount to a known level of pressure from an air compressor. I wouldn't claim this to amount to accurate calibration but then it didn't need to be, somewhere around 1 kg/sq cm of air pressure in the tank is enough for fierce maximum heat setting if required





Gauge reassembled with new sight glass and ready to reunite with the stove






Taylors gauge removed and put back into store, original gauge for the stove back in place




Pressurised, ready to fire up for a celebratory brew, project finished

 

John,

I sooooo envy your abilities!!!

Myself, I'm a natural bungler, and really shouldn't be permitted any interaction with anything combustible.

Every post is a wonder to behold, many thanks for sharing.

Best regards,

Mike.

 

Hi John, Great work on this particular fiddly restoration.
Best Regards,
Kerophile.

 

Sweet

 

As good as new.

 

Hi John

I need say no more than "SUPERB" 8)

Stu

 

excellent work on the gauge, John. The stove looks better than new.

Peter

 

PETROBLITZ

 

Good the decal's still intact on that one @gieorgijewski

The double-burner example I provided THIS link for at the start of the thread appears not to have.

 

I like decals...
You like decals...
------------
EVERYONE LIKES THE DECALS
)