First off, I would like to show my new purchase of the 110. It is my first stove of this type, it is missing one pot stand, and the heater reflector. Everything seems to be in working order exept for the cleaning needle adjuster . It is stuck good, and won't move, any suggestion on how to remedy this, as I am very excited to fire this sucker up. Can the pot stands be purchased some place or will I have to make one? same with the heat reflector. Any way, I think I got a good deal on it, payed 60.oo USD. Thanks for looking and any advice. Dean
Good Morning, Boondocker43, Congrats on getting a wonderful stove/heater! Both Sweet Bride and I dearly love ours, and it's worked like a champ for us! As for a heater reflector, you might try to contact our good friend DutchMike, in The Netherlands, as he kindly helped me find some parts for mine. Long-time CCS member, and superb machinist, Doug Weiss, aka exeter_yak, made my pot supports, modeled from an original which was loaned to me by DutchMike. So, if Doug has time, he can certainly make you some outstanding pot supports. Regarding the stuck assembly, have you tried soaking it in penetrating oil, like Maltby's? This might work. Or, you could heat it up with a torch, and gently try to open it up. I had a Coleman setup which was seized like that, and the penetrating oil, then the heating did the trick for me. Give it a try, and see if it works for you. Best of luck in assembling your parts. If you are patient, it's very possible that you can get everything you will need. But, patience is the key, so please remember that. Take care, and God Bless! Every Good Wish, Doc P.S. From your date stamp, it appears your #110 was made in 1939, which is cool. Also, you "might" be able to jury-rig a Tilley heat reflector, if you can't get a proper Primus version. Again, great stove, and have fun getting it up and running as it should! That thing really puts out some heat, when setup as a heater, and cooks very nicely, too!
Hi, It is likely that the spindle of your cleaning needle drive is stuck in place by the asbestos/graphite packing. This packing in the stuffing box is normally compressed with the packing nut to form a fluid-tight seal, whilst still allowing the spindle to rotate and operate the rod which activates the cleaning needle. If the assembly is still seized with the packing nut removed, you should follow Doc's advice about using penetrating oil. If you still cannot get movement on the spindle, you might try "picking out" the packing material using a needle pointed pick or similar. Damp the assembly down with water first, and dispose of any packing carefully as it is likely asbestos-based. If, after the above operations, the spindle is still stuck you should consider heat and quench in cold water to get some differential expansion/contraction to free things up. Be careful how you grip and handle these small parts as they are small, threaded, and made of soft brass! The new packing should be graphite tape, but come back for more advice once you get the spindle freed. Nice stove by the way, Best Regards, Kerophile.
Hello, Congratulations on a rare stove, that is complete in it's essentials. After all, the examples for copying are even within the US, and a really nasty cheap, thin gauged wok could be the base for a perfect reflector. But like Doc said, patience is a key ingredient in collecting, as well as fettling! All the advise given by Kerophile is valid too. You do not need the cleaning devise to run the stove. Just remove the rod, that has the needle screwed in on top. By the way, brand-new needles can be had. Just put that (stuck) assembly back to plug the hole. These burners need a good pre-heat - that is why the pre-heat cup (alcohol) is deep and the attractive shield is to funnel those flames upward. These burners are sensitive to the clean state they are inside - when clogged or layered with sooty deposits you might find it spitting with yellow flame and billowing soot. Hence the instructions you are lucky to have. The exclusive scraper tool you can make out of a fondue-pricker. It takes time to get a feel and insight what you are doing when cleaning these odd burners. The inside conical protusion is slit 4 times in 90° increments; these should become visible and thus clean. So do your try-out in a suitable surrounding and have fun! Mike P.S. Did I say this is the first brass version I have laid my eyes on?
Ha George, that's it! I was thinking of having a steel wok shaped and then nickled, but simplicity simply does it! The original spider is made of nickled brass, but if any metal strip of suitable dimensions (about 1 mm thick, 6 mm wide) can be found, a spider could be made without too much trouble. Regards, Mike
Thanks everybody for all the great advise, I have the unit sitting in penetrating oil, will let it soak for a while and give it a try if nothing happens, I'll let it set overnite. thanks again Dean
