O.K. he's back with more stupid dumb questions. I know if I was smart I would buy a explorer 11 or a KAP stove but being a mite thin on the ground here; like everyone else I suppose I have to make my own or pray for miracles. Only up to this stage and you remote burner fans with experiance may be able to shed some light on the best fuel line connecton option. Will I have it detachable from tank or Burner? Pros and cons of each method.Please Any advice welcome. Good or bad
Maybe I wrote it wrong. Is it best to have the disconnect coupling on the tank or the burner? The 6 feet of line is for my larger frypan. Otherwise the fish won't fit!!!!
Where does the pressurised fuel exit the tank? If you want to be able to disconnect the tank/hose/burner you're going to need some way of closing off the tank unless you empty it every time you want to dismantle it.
Thinking of doing the flippy stoppy thing with the tank. Can make up a bung and cap for burner/ tank. If I disconneted it from the burner and plug it. Then when I want to use it, it will have fuel in the line again. But can wrap around tank. If I disconnect it at the tank and seal the hose and tank. I would still have to wrap it some how around the burner/ feed pipe. Think that it would have to go all the way out to the edge of the windscreen. About 5 '' long with brass tubing as they did with the KAP stove. I don't know how hot it would get under a windscreen after a few hours running. I know the newer multi burners have very short brass pipes in that regard Seems that the hose should take some heat but can't be sure to how much though. Bloke gave it to me for nicks. Said I had a few crazy stove freinds that may what a bit as well. Shop is diversifing a bit and don't think he's used much of it in a long while.
I'm no expert on these things but to me caution would dictate that you would disconnect at the tank. Why? Because if there is a wee bit of flame at the burner and you disconnect at the burner, whoopie you're now going to have some serious flame where you don't want it. With the long control rod wrapping the hose about the burner after it is cooled would be the place to store it. As to a length of brass tube between the hose and the burner. YES. again caution on the safer side. and i wouldn't use tube but a length of pipe as it has a thicker wall structure to resist the reflected heat off the bottom of your pan. You mention hours of burn time yet i can not think of a time when i cooked a meal for hours. Were talking about camping stoves here and if my memory serves me the longest i've ever needed to cook a full meal was but minutes. 15 - 30 minutes at the most. lance (after thought) why not use two quick disconnects, one at each end in reverse, thus retaining the fuel in the hose but after the burner has gone out. lp
Hose will only be short. Yeah lance does seem firm all right. Thicker tube seems to be the go though after awhile it wouldn't make much difference would think? Woldn't think too much at the best of times. Safer better for me!! Thanks why I'm asking. When I put the camp oven on top or cook up some corn meat/tongues. They take me a few hrs 2-3. Onions and steak and sausages etc takes me 1/2 hr at least with a brew during cooking and one to wash it down with.
The flippy stoppy thingy setup is a good one. I didn't like it at first but now I'm used to it. it is very good. It purges the line of fuel and reduces the pressure in the tank simultaneously but it needs some form of shutoff or instantaneous connector at the tank for it to work properly. The Omnifuel uses what appears to be a spring loaded ball which is opened by the pin in the gas canister connector and the Nova uses a fitting which looks like a small hydraulic fitting (which it is, effectively). A simple cock would do; on the end of the riser tube directly behind the hose connection.
The hydralulic quick disconnects seem very bulky. The air ones plastic or the steel ones no smaller than the haydrallic ones. Thought that with the fuel pick up down one side of tank to bottom. Then only have to put on side for flipppy stop. Thought if I let the air bleed out of tank and stand it back up that the fuel wouldn't lift up that much to flood the fuel line again. Seal off with cap or plug and be right. Any where you can get small sealing couplings then?? Or where they are used? Yeah I know on stoves but can you buy the disconnects cheap enough. Or do I have to make my own??
I've been toying with a similar idea for an old Packaway. Make a three legged support for the burner along the lines of current stoves, and connect the tank using quick release dry couplings. There are plenty of suppliers out there I just need a local source who'll make up an appropriate length. Something like this. http://www.desihose.com/viewproduct.asp?pid=169 And ask them to make the ends up with the appropriate fittings, and fit the matching parts to the burner and the tank. They will probably want an order in the 1000's, but what the hell, it's an interesting concept. Simes
Hey, Bruce, This is a fantastic idea, Lad!! I can already see a plethora of remote burner stoves being cobbled up in Stove Sheds all over the world!! Hey, I'd like to try that, too, and in fact, have had such a project on hold for quite a long time. I keep waiting to get time to do some of the work needed, and always seem to find something else that is more pressing! But, I like your idea, and look forward to seeing how it turns out! Bet you could sell the makings of such a stove to the rest of us, if this works!! Way to go, Brother Bruce!!! Take care, and God Bless! Every Good Wish, Doc Mark
Wish I had a little cock then.I've only got a big one. Lances suggestions seem logical and true. So does Ians explanation. See what I can come up with. Doubt it doc. If I can make it then every- one else would be able too .Lighter and prettier looking than me for less no doubt. How 'bout a bike/car/ truck valve set up or would they desinergrate with the fuel. Cheap Relpaceable and available.???
For a small cock, a 71 , 80 or 123 valve springs to mind. Someone may have a suitable riser/vapo with one or both end knackered. So long as the valve was ok you would only need little stubs either side of it to solder tubes & fittings on. Soft solder would be ok as it wouldn't be getting very hot there.
I too have been messing about with ideas like this, even made a remote tank stove using a brown ale bottle for the tank used a CO2 sparklet from a home brewing keg to pressurise the bottle. Obviously this was just an experiment not a practical idea. I have yet to find neat quick release connectors, I just used jubilee clips and anodised hose finishers I had lying around from building the car. Still searching! I think connectors at both ends of the fuel hose would be a good idea that way you can also carry a spare and change it without the need for tools.
Hi, It occurs to me that I have fuel resistant quick connectors on my outboard engine. This industry might be a source of the necessary parts. Regards, Kerophile.
Hi, here is a link listing the sort of thing I had in mind, as used by the Marine Industry: http://www.gaelforcemarine.co.uk/ProductDetailsPage.aspx?product_id=20652 Regards, Kerophile.
This sort of stuff http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/products/ProductList.asp?cls=MSPORT&grp=MC048&pgrp=M025&tlgrp=M025 Very expensive tho.
Hi. Expensive???? How much do you want to spend? http://www.nextag.com/Boating--zzquick+connectorsz2701032zB6z5---html Anyway, Bruce will probably have a mate who works in an Outboard Repair Shop. Regards, Kerophile
Whilst the parts lnked to appear expensive, you are only going to use one or two. and will hopefully buy the right part first time. (worth having a word with someone who knows about these things) My experiments, so far, with stove mods etc have all involved adaptation of existing stove parts, both traditional and modern. When you compare the prices of stove parts with, say, some of Demon Tweeks' stuff there's not that much in it.
