This is why I did this post, to settle in the minds of future fettlers. I added no text to the series of pics but instead linked the post to a very good thread where the 5 click system had been debated. Thanks for your positive remarks. Bill, its funny you should say that about a 71. I have one where the tank to burner threads are pretty poor. Its either a chop job or try and get the threads cleaned up. After reading the Whitworth Thread "thread" it looks like there is no way I would be able to get a tap and die to do the job!!
Thank you so much for the pics. I'm just discovering a P-39A stove and your burner cutaways really help my understanding. Now if I could only understand how the inner T-cap works to adjust the mixture, I'd be well on my way. Scott
Very well done and good pictures too! Thanks for sharing! On picture #8 there is a little mistake. When the needle is in its top or cleaning position, the valve should be fully open, not closed. Radler
I got my first pressure stove last month. This pictures let me understand the real structure of burner. Thanks, lanevitt
So let's say (a friend?) drilled the filter out of a Kenyon 209 alcohol stove burner, and being a numbskull he drilled all the way into the needle/cleaner seat area. From your photos of a similar but different burner, the casting is solid. Is the Kenyon similar? What is the best way to repair that? Is there a plug that can be installed? I was thinking maybe a brass ball, hammered into place with two punches might work, but I'm just guessing. I'm not much brighter than the guy who did this. Thanks, and it is neat to see folk so excited, and expert, on these stoves.
I have no experience with your burner. The cut-away photos in this thread will give you a good idea of the general construction. This may also be of some use.
It must work similar, but mine is a single cast piece without the outside piping. So, I imagine it must have a passageway cut inside the casting to the needle. Not sure how they built it that way, though. I'm looking for a cutaway of it to see what I need to do.
https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/kenyon-marine-homestrand-206.14347/ Guess where I found this? This is the same as my burner. I don't know how to post pictures--it keeps asking for a URL. BernieDawg's three large pictures are the same as mine, and the issue under discussion is the same. They stopped chatting, however, where I went bad. I did try pounding from the top, and ended up drilling from the bottom. This left a hole all the way from the bottom through the space for the needle, cleaner and nipple. It all assembles but does not shut off. So, I look at it again and realize that the needle is bypassed--fuel can flow past the needle gears and straight out, only the cleaner sitting tight down would have a chance of shutting it off, and it does not. So, there "must" be an inside channel from the intake sideways to the needle, thence back to the centerline channel and up and out. If this is correct, I need to plug the hole above where the bypass cuts out, and below the needle opening...
For those CCS Members who are Subscribers this link shows an exploded diagram of the Homestrand Mariner burner:206 and 209 http://www.ess-kayyards.com/homestrand/206-209_partslist.pdf Best Regards, Kerophile.
Ken, The brass mesh is called a filter on the parts diagram. Pat, I wouldn't imagine there would be anything between the filter and valve. If the cleaning needle isn't set right it can prevent the valve shutting off the stove. The cleaning needle isn't necessary for stove operation so you can remove and try the stove again. If it still doesn't shutoff the problem is either the tip of the spindle or you damaged the inside of the burner casting.
