Hi All, I've been trying to fire up my old 8R (think it's and 8R-F - earlier model) and i can't seem to get any pressure. I did a freezer + hot water test and there was air coming from the fuel tank filler cap and the jet/nipple. So I've sealed the filler cap and checked the nipple. Next step was to get the spindle out to check it is OK and not damaged as well, and also check the graphite seal. Having unscrewed the nipple/jet and taken out the (broken) cleaning needle, I unscrewed the spindle nut, took it off and unscrewed the spindle fully until it turns loosely (i.e ain't screwing out any more but there's no resistance). Bernie Dawg on Youtube says that at this stage you can just grip the spindle and pull it out - but I can't seem to do this, and now I can't get the spindle nut back in because there's what looks like a piece of graphite blocking the spindle nut from getting back into its thread. Really scratching my head here. Any ideas? I attach a pic of the offending article. Tom
I might add that I did not take the graphite out yet, so don't know if it is missing (I just bought the stove) or whether that's it in the picture...
The spindle and/or the graphite has to be pushed back in, there are not enough threads exposed for the nut to catch. Duane
first seat the spindle again it does look like the graphite is intact. A lot of time when these stoves are shut off they are turned to the left, the cleaning needle is enough to stop the flame but it is not a airtight closure. reseat the spindle and replace the nut (without the broken cleaning needle). turn the spindle to the right you should feel it seat . make sure it is closed tight and try the dunk test again and see if the jet is still leaking. Where were the bubbles coming from around the filler cap? from the edge or the hex nut on the top of the cap? the edge means you need a new filler cap gasket the hex nut means you need to replace the pip. probably need to do both anyway.
Thanks @hikerduane and @CW. I think I'll order a new graphite seal and needle, then do the bubble test, as I think the graphite is damaged. Do I lubricate the spindle and graphite when I put themback in, and if so what with? As for the bubbles, they were coming from the fuel cap seal not the SRV. In closer inspection, this is because the rim of the tank filler has a small dent where something edged has been dropped on it, causing a recess which affects the seal. It's not a deep recess and I attach a pic. You can see the dent on the LHS.  That said, the existing rubber seal in the filler cap is thin and old + not original so replacing it may fix the issue. If not, I may have to gently sand the rim down with fine paper until the recess is flush and the seal is good again, unless there are better ideas out there.. Tom
G'day Tom, the graphite seal will be catching on the threads. If it won't pull out then you will need to dig it out. However, I wouldn't remove it unless it leaks or there is a problem with the spindle. Tap it back in until the nut will mate with the thread. It doesn't matter if the graphite is damaged doing this as it will repair itself when under pressure and heat.
@TeeEmPee I sometimes put a little bit of oil on old dry graphite when I’m retightening a joint like that. I use 3-in-1 oil, but any machine oil should be fine. Like others have said, I see no need to remove the current graphite: pack it in, add a drop of oil, tighten the nut, loosen it, then tighten it again until it seals and the spindle can still turn. Tony
@ROBBO55 @Tony Press thanks both. Very useful. I think I will retry the graphite but still order a replacement seal kit... Tom
