Classic Camp Stoves El Cheapo are not, and neither are canisters. For ultralite, it's alcohol, baby. For Classic, we all know. That's all about the experience, and nothing more. Edit: One doesn't drive their '56 Chevy for the mileage. Ken in NC
A general rule of thumb with metals and re- bending them is to try and match the circumstances in which it bent the first time, the same amount of heat in the same place with the same pressure... ...HOWEVER, and its a big however, most metals, and alloys more than most of THEM, can change their internal/crystaline structure when heated or flexed. Think annealing, work hardening and tempering. Sadly I do not know enough about Ti and its alloys to give you any advice thats watertight. But with the above in mind a bit of reading and searching may be easier, maybe some welding/fabrication forums ?
That means gas is leaving the can VERY fast ! Or it does in the welding world...well ,my welding world at least
@shocker, many are real worried about a canister over heating, so I believe that may be the main reason a windscreen is not used. If theyd just feel the canister, they could see it is not over heating. Funny, for cold conditions they are incorporating some sort of way to heat the canister in sub-freezing temps. Canisters are too expensive so I bring my classic stoves most of the time. Duane
The windscreen made for a Snow peak Giga Power stove I used, many years before CCS, wrapped itself around the pot stand area, and worked very well. It didn't wrap around the canister. It was only about 1/4 inch high and about as wide as the pot stands.
If you want a high performance, lightweight gas stove, I suggest you try a Soto Windburner with a 1 litre Optimus pot with the thermal heat absorbing fins on the base. Very quick boil and very good simmer. Superb quality. Cheers Simon Foxxx
Well, several people have come forward, now that I have posted my information. I've posted more photos: BRS-3000T Failure #2 The interesting thing about Failure #2 (as I'm calling it) is that the failure doesn't appear to be wind related. If so, then the stove is sort of a roulette wheel: You don't know quite what you're going to get every time you take a spin. HJ
@hikin_jim My windscreen comment only followed earlier windscreen comments. Not this stove related particularly. The snow peak windscreen only worked while a pot was on, also.
Thanks for the info. I have two of the above stoves in my kit(s). BTW Jim, love your blog site. I frequent it quite a bit. I have been educated and informed because of CCS and your site. I have been collecting stoves since the 90's. Long way to go.
@hikin_jim My experience with cat stoves and other alcohol burners is that the pot of cold water cools the burner down enough that the flame dies before my eyes if I haven't given the stove long enough to bloom properly before setting the pan on top. This is with steel or aluminium which have reasonable heat conductivities. You mentioned that titanium is less conductive so is it possible that the pot supports are not getting cooled by the heat sink that the pot of water creates? It would not matter if it were windy or not, when a pan of water at <100ºC (212ºF) is sat on top of a steel or aluminium pot support any excess heat will be conducted up to the pan. With titanium it seems that this pathway is not available. If you really don't trust the BRS-3000T to the point where it's not worthy of keeping you could try to make some pot supports of a similar size out of steel and test them to see if they start glowing. regards John
The pot supports does take much heat because of the angle to the burner, where most of the other burners have the pot supports standing right out from the burners.
Well, I've gotten several more reports of people having failures on the BRS-3000T. My read on the stove is that it's tinny and shoddy. There's very little metal in the pot supports, and there's very little room for error in the alloy. If the alloy is off a bit, then the pot supports are very much subject to failure. I can't imagine taking this stove out into a remote area, but some people are fiercely loyal to it. My latest documentation of the problems: BRS-3000T Failure #3. HJ
Titanium work hardens, so cold bending it after a thermal creep even will weaken it. The photo above shows a crack failure right along a high-stress bend in the metal. Do you think they took the extra precaution of annealing or stress relieving after it was stamped? Not for a $10 stove. It's impossible to know what grade was used in the BRS stove without chemical analysis. 6Al-4V/grade 5 would be the most suitable for this application, but ANY Ti is a poor choice for orange-hot pot supports IMO. There's a reason even the most weight-conscious name-brand stoves continue to use stainless steel. I got two little GigaPower stoves this past season for $25/ea. Can't see much reason to risk a back country stove failure just to save $10 or $15 and a half ounce. A broken stove is actually dead weigh anyway...and you have to know that some people will opt to discard them along the trail.(like the ones who leave empty canisters behind).
inexpensive (cheap), light weight, readily available but prone to failure. not a piece of kit i would have any faith in. nothing i dislike more than suspect gear.
