Hi, this Part should have been covered before the lacquering but some readers were just too impatient! Ironwork 1. The following remarks refer mainly to Brass stoves although they do have a wider relevance. 2. The term "Ironwork" in the title refers mainly to the steel commonly used for the legs, and sometimes the feet of stoves, and to the pan-rings (aka pan-holders or trivets). Steel was also sometimes used, mainly on British and French post-WW2 stoves, for the flame spreaders and spirit cups. 3. The legs ( and feet when steel was used) were "tinned" with solder at the manufacturing stage to aid assembly of the stove and provide corrosion protection in service. 4. Providing this "tinned" layer has not broken down, it is relatively easy to recover the original finish of the legs, by soaking them in solvent degreaser, or a strong detergent solution,and then scrubbing with a Scotchbrite pad, to remove carbon deposits and other crap. 5. It is a good idea to follow the above procedure whatever the sate of the legs, steel feet or pan-holder as it will reveal their condition and prepare them for further treatment. If it is a collapsible stove that you are working on the legs can be removed and this makes the work much easier. If you have a fixed leg stove things are a bit more challenging. 6. If there has been significant rusting of all, or part, of the legs the first thing that needs to be done is to remove the loose rust deposits and then halt the corrosion process. Wire brushing and abrasive cloths can be used but be careful to avoid pulling off the legs or damaging the adjacent soft brass of the tank. 7. Pan-holders can be very rusty so they are prepared in similar way to that described for the legs. 8. A number of patent "rust cures" or treatments are marketed. In the UK, Kurust, Jenolite , and Hammerite all spring to mind. There will be equivalent products in most countries of the World. They can be good products and if you follow the instructions they will "Kill" the existing rust and provide a surface suitable for finishing, for example by painting. 9. Alternatively you can folow my example and "brew" your own "Rust Killer". If you can obtain concentrated Phosphoric Acid and arrange to have it slightly diluted ( 85% Acid to 15% Water) you have a very effective product for less than £5 a litre....and a litre goes along way. 10. HEALTH WARNING: a) Wear Goggles, Rubber Gloves, Eye Protection,and a rubber apron or old clothes. b) Remember to add acid to water if mixing solutions, never the other way around!!! c)Do not carry out rust removal operations in the house or in a confined space because of the fumes. d) work in a plastic basin or similar container. Phosphoric Acid will react with concrete, fabrics, human flesh, etc. Most of the above is common sense and this is not a particularly hazardous process but I thought I would write it all down as I don't want you partner/ wife/ lover/ Mother bitching to me if there is an accident. 11. Do NOT immerse the whole stove in this mixture! It will certainly remove tarnish from brass but citric acid is cheaper and more controllable. All dirt,flaking rust, and paint should have been removed from the steelwork as described above. It is easier to paint the Rust Killer onto the legs or panholders rather than to fully immerse any part of them. 12. The acid mixture should not harm the solder holding the legs to the tank, or any residual tinning on the legs, but if you see it "fizzing", wash it off and be more careful with the application next time. 13. I recommend that you leave the Rust Killer coating on for at least a couple of hours. In this period you should ensure that any particularly rusty areas stay well coated.At the end of this period remove any un-reacted liquid using Methylated Spirits or alcohol. Once the alcohol has evaporated, allow the surface to dry. It is then ready for lacquering or priming and painting. 14. For the more technically minded: Phosphoric acid , when used to treat iron and steel, produces a so-called "Conversion Coating". It converts certain poorly adherent iron oxides into a hard, black. adherent iron oxide ( Magnetite). There are also Phosphates in the converted layer.This black layer will inhibit further corrosion ( rusting) providing it is protected by a lacquer or paint system . Typically phoshate- treating steelwork prior to painting more than doubles the life of the paint system. 15. Whether you use paint or lacquer for finishing depends on personal preference. I tend to lacquer the legs and paint the pan-rings. If you intend to use the stove, use a heat-resisting paint on the pan-ring. Alternatively, one of the bear-grease and salt recipes, used by some people to "season" iron pots and Dutch Oven before use, can be tried 16. I also use Rust Killer on stove boxes to halt the worst ravages of corrosion and rusting... but be careful how you apply it as it can darken or remove paint finishes. 17. The 2nd Health Warning: The information in this post is believed to be accurate and is given in good faith. If anyone sees any technical error(s) let me know as soon as possible and I will rectify. If you decide to give it a try, be sensible , use personal protection and don't drink the priming sprits beforehand. Good Luck with your stove restoration Regards, Kerophile.