Svea 123 Disassembly

@Hoostas

Your jet may be enlarged, or your wick needs replacing. But first, run it for 20 mins on a full tank and see if the flame gets better.

Tony

 

Thanks for the replies folks.. As far as I cant tell my wick looks nice and clean. I have another wick a guy on ebay made. I couldn't budge the top to unscrew it. Super tight, so I haven't had the old one out. . What do they look like when they are bad?

I've run it a while, but I will time out 20 minutes tonight.

How impossible is it to find a replacement jet?

Thanks again- Justin

 

The only way I know the wick needs replacing is if I look at it.
@Tony Press did it this way here. I put it in a vice differently, but it does the same job. It may require penetrating oil. (That's not WD-40)


Look at the first page of this thread, and search for other disassembly threads.

As for a jet, I am sure there are enough Sveas that are in disassembly to be easy to get a jet from someone.

Ken in NC

 

I saw this method. I have not tried it yet. Mine is really on there.

My wick looks white and clean.... I'll dig around and see if I can find a jet for sale. Thanks!

 

The darkened/charred part of the wick will be deeply embedded in the small tube of the vaporizer. It will not be visible unless you disassemble the stove.

All of mine have been really on there. And have taken days of soaking penetrating oil to remove. A tapered thread meant to seal, not to be removed.

 

Do you use PB blaster or the like?

 

I usually use Kano Kroil.
The best is a 50/50 mix of acetone/ATF.
It only takes a few drops.

 

Really? Acetone and transmission fluid. Very cool, would not have thought of that. We used to use brake fluid to strip paint of metal miniatures when we were kids, but that's a new one on me.. Thanks.

 

Hi, just saw this thread and I don't know if you managed to get it running properly or not.

The 123 stoves are not supposed to be pressurized by a pump, they get their (low) pressure from heat. Filling the "cup" at the base of the generator with denatured alcohol and letting that burn should be enough in mild weather, a second fill/burn may be needed in cold (freezing) weather.

When you light it the flame should be mostly blue with some yellow/orange flame at the tips. The flame will be weak and quiet for the first minute or so. When it gets going the flame should be all blue and you'll hear it burning strong.

If the wick is too close to the end it will never burn correctly, there should be about 1 cm between the end of the wick and the end of the generator for the fuel to vaporize correctly.

 

CJ1,

I just replaced my wick as part of an overhaul of my 123. Other parts are suspect (seals mostly) and it’s not burning right. But I am concerned that I didn’t maintain adequate space between the wick and the generator. Any science to that or just size it up when stuffing the new wick into place?

Also, is there ANY hope of getting the Penta screw off without the tool? Would good heat loosen it up enough? Or a pentalobe (Torx) tip?

Thanks all. You guys make this a fun and active forum!

 

I have not concerned myself about the gap. I do not pack the wick tight, just enough.
The Torx tool is rounded and may result in damage to the penta screw. If you use it, be careful.

Personally, I believe these stoves deserve the patience required to get the right tools and do the job properly.
BD used to make some, I have one, I think the Fettlebox has some, or you can grind 5 sides on an Allen Wrench.

Ken in NC

 

Agree the stoves deserve the patience required. In my case, I made the Penta wrench. And it took about 2 full hours of filing, checking with a magnifying glass, filing some more! Along with heat to kill the thread locker, it worked well. Happy to loan it out to anyone in a pinch.

 

Bravo, well done sir.

Now that you have graduated, you can start your own fettling threads.

 

Hilarious. Which reminds me, what is the genesis of the word fettle? And in my American youth, did I get it confused with fiddle, as to ‘fiddle around’ with something? Undoubtedly a thread somewhere on this site that covers this question.

 

Look good Rob. Do you have one for sale? OR trade for some Hypodermic needles. I am looking for one, I don't have what needed to make one. Thank
https://classiccampstoves.com/posts/299062/

 

JP2, i don’t have extras, but I recently retired and haven’t yet found my new purpose in life. I doubt it’s filing Penta wrenches into shape, but I’ll see if I can knock out another one. Presume the Svea 123 Penta wrench size is what you’re looking for.

Rob

 

Yes, Thank

 

Hi @Rob McMillan :

https://www.collinsdictionary.com/dictionary/english/fettle

 

JP2,

It was a slow, rainy afternoon and I made up a second copy of the Penta wrench. It ain’t beautiful, but it seems to get a good purchase on the nut and goes in about an 1/8 inch. I’ve noticed that the nut on my Svea isn’t quite equilateral, and the wrench fits best in one of the five choices.

Let me know where to send it.
Rob

 

BD, when he made his tools, or was it Doug, had a slight taper to the penta wrench. If I recall it was to fit snugly into the hole that may have variations of size.