1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

Svea 123 Disassembly

Discussion in 'Fettlers Master Class' started by Tony Press, Sep 3, 2016.

  1. Tony Press

    Tony Press Australia Subscriber

    Online
    Joined:
    Jun 8, 2013
    Messages:
    3,247
    @Hoostas

    Your jet may be enlarged, or your wick needs replacing. But first, run it for 20 mins on a full tank and see if the flame gets better.

    Tony
     
  2. Hoostas United States

    Offline
    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2017
    Messages:
    9
    Location:
    Florida USA
    Thanks for the replies folks.. As far as I cant tell my wick looks nice and clean. I have another wick a guy on ebay made. I couldn't budge the top to unscrew it. Super tight, so I haven't had the old one out. . What do they look like when they are bad?

    I've run it a while, but I will time out 20 minutes tonight.

    How impossible is it to find a replacement jet?

    Thanks again- Justin
     
  3. snwcmpr United States

    Offline
    Joined:
    Nov 16, 2011
    Messages:
    7,198
    Location:
    USA
    The only way I know the wick needs replacing is if I look at it.
    @Tony Press did it this way here. I put it in a vice differently, but it does the same job. It may require penetrating oil. (That's not WD-40)
    [​IMG]

    Look at the first page of this thread, and search for other disassembly threads.

    As for a jet, I am sure there are enough Sveas that are in disassembly to be easy to get a jet from someone.

    Ken in NC
     
  4. Hoostas United States

    Offline
    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2017
    Messages:
    9
    Location:
    Florida USA
    I saw this method. I have not tried it yet. Mine is really on there.

    My wick looks white and clean.... I'll dig around and see if I can find a jet for sale. Thanks!
     
  5. snwcmpr United States

    Offline
    Joined:
    Nov 16, 2011
    Messages:
    7,198
    Location:
    USA
    The darkened/charred part of the wick will be deeply embedded in the small tube of the vaporizer. It will not be visible unless you disassemble the stove.

    All of mine have been really on there. And have taken days of soaking penetrating oil to remove. A tapered thread meant to seal, not to be removed.
     
  6. Hoostas United States

    Offline
    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2017
    Messages:
    9
    Location:
    Florida USA
    Do you use PB blaster or the like?
     
  7. snwcmpr United States

    Offline
    Joined:
    Nov 16, 2011
    Messages:
    7,198
    Location:
    USA
    I usually use Kano Kroil.
    The best is a 50/50 mix of acetone/ATF.
    It only takes a few drops.
     
  8. Hoostas United States

    Offline
    Joined:
    Mar 4, 2017
    Messages:
    9
    Location:
    Florida USA
    Really? Acetone and transmission fluid. Very cool, would not have thought of that. We used to use brake fluid to strip paint of metal miniatures when we were kids, but that's a new one on me.. Thanks.
     
  9. CJ1

    CJ1 United States Subscriber

    Offline
    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2014
    Messages:
    32
    Location:
    Montreal, Canada
    Hi, just saw this thread and I don't know if you managed to get it running properly or not.

    The 123 stoves are not supposed to be pressurized by a pump, they get their (low) pressure from heat. Filling the "cup" at the base of the generator with denatured alcohol and letting that burn should be enough in mild weather, a second fill/burn may be needed in cold (freezing) weather.

    When you light it the flame should be mostly blue with some yellow/orange flame at the tips. The flame will be weak and quiet for the first minute or so. When it gets going the flame should be all blue and you'll hear it burning strong.

    If the wick is too close to the end it will never burn correctly, there should be about 1 cm between the end of the wick and the end of the generator for the fuel to vaporize correctly.