..... In truth, the "R" stands for "regulated"..... Guessing that the "U" stands for something like "unadorned", as it is sold without any extras. Doc
R stand for rensnål, swedish for cleaning needle. U probably something like utan, swedisng for without.
One of the best things about your purchase is the Markill fuel bottle, with its spring-loaded dispensing mechanism. Saves a lot of overfills and spills. My favorite. Tom
Had no idea what it even was. Of course I knew it was a fuel bottle, but had no idea what kind it was, or that it has a spring loaded dispensing mechanism. Thanks for the heads up, appreciate it.
Awesome addition, I really love my 123R and 8R. they have completely replaced my Coleman single burner for coffee on the patio. lol
Basecamp sports still has a few of the cup and handles for the 123R/123. NOS I believe. the seem to be pretty straight forward.
My 123R has a fiber wick in a circle inside the spirit cup. I hav'nt seen a replacement avail for it but would like to add that feature to the 8R as it starts meths much easier then just the plain cup. anyone know where to find it and is it original assessory of scavenged from a different stove.
Markill bottle - unscrew the cap, invert the bottle over the stove's fuel reservoir then press the spring release to allow the fuel to flow. Or press the spring release against the lip of the fuel tank to pour. When you need to refill the Markill bottle use the cap as a wrench to remove the spring release and fuel valve. When finished use the cap to re-tighten the fuel valve. (Doing it is much easier than explaining it...) Here's pics. Tom
@rchilso Thanks man, look forward to using it. I have no idea where to get wicks at. @Greeley Thanks man, appreciate it. I had no idea.
I bought some small diameter fiberglass cord, like they use to seal wood stove parts. cut it to length and tie the ends with wire to keep it from fraying. Some here use fiber pads. The wick makes a big improvement in priming.
Nice catch, Warrior. I bought my first Svea 123 in 1970 for $8.95 retail at a mountain shop. Still have it. still runs good. Mid-Eighties, on my recommendation, a young friend bought a 123R for a long hiking trip. He later decided he'd never go outdoors again, and gave me the 123R on a sort of permanent loan. [I've given it back to him for campouts, but it always comes back]. Then I got a mini Trangia burner for a Swiss Volcano stove [Borde FlascheBrenner]. But I thought I was just a well-prepared camper. I didn't realize I had a problem until I bought a German Arara 37 off Ebay from a UK vendor because it looked like a 123, but was listed as a WWI German Trench Stove. Turned out to be from a later war. Not thinking about the exchange rate, I up bid before going on a Grand Canyon trip. When I got back I'd ''won.'' to the tune of $112 and change USD. Looking up the stove's origin, I found this site, and identified a case of stove pox. Since being a denizen of CCS, I've since acquired an Optimus 99, and an 8R, and a bevy of old Coleman's -- 2 425s, 2 413s and a 502. Old school affectionados of the 123 will say it simmers better than the 123R.
@SveaSizzler @Ed Winskill said here SVEA 123R that. "With the 123, you have to open and close the valve with many turns". Does that mean it has more adjustability, hence letting you get a smaller flame for simmering?
Yeah, pretty much. You get a wider arc of control on the earlier model. The self-cleaning needle gets in the way of fine adjustment, IMO. But I don't know if pulling the needle out in the R model improves the control arc any. It's been a while since I had them both burning side-by-side. I'll have to check that out. Used to be, you could get an earlier 123[.0] regulator from Base Camp UK, and 'backdate' a 123R into a 123[.0] but I think that part's N/A now. And you'd also need an early style jet and burner bell. The flame spreader's the same, though.
I'd say the additional control on the 123 is minimal for practical purposes. They aren't simmererererers.
