It's been a while since I added to my collection. There happens to be a number of nice ones for sale in my area. The two I am considering are an Optimus No. 00 and a Primus No. 96. Both stoves come with the tins. The 96 has some wear and surface rust on the tin. The 00 is has a plain, aluminum I think, tin with Optimus Camping Stove stamped on it. The 96 tin is red with the Primus logo on the lid. Like I said, i is worn but still has good colour. Also comes with some the instuction cards. Which of these models is dearer? The 96s are quite common, but I like their compact size.
Well, dearer would I reckon refer to the price. While I haven't bought any for a long time, they seemed usually to be in much the same price range. For use as opposed to collection purposes, I see the 00 as much the more utilitarian stove, and has tradtitional recognition as a hiking stove. In my view, the 96s have far too many loose bits, and are too small, to be much more than picnic brew-up stoves.
Hi Ed, thanks for the comments. Either stove would be more for the shelf than for in the field, although I ensure all my stoves function if needed. I've been hesitant to get into the larger tin stoves, concentrating on the smaller, self pressurizing models. I'm also a big fan of the gravity fed spirit stoves. One more thing on the 96, what do you mean by too many loose bits? You mean the pump assembly, or the fuel cap?
Well, loose bits are a characteristic of the old brass keroburners, but seem more problematic with the 96. I'm thinking 3 pan supports, drop-on spirit cup, drop-on burner basket, drop-on flame spreader, fuel cap, pressure release screw, and reserve cap come to mind. This won't count the burner riser itself. The 00 has the pan supports and some of the other stuff, but the entire burner assembly with spirit cup is more-or-less a unit. I'd surely give the brass keroburners a try by all means; they are certainly my favorites. For a first, of the two you mention the 00 would be best. Or so say I....
if it's for the shelf i would go for the 96..being small they have that "jewel" look to them rather than a big workhorse ..and if you keep the tank empty and the stove polished up its a nice conversation piece..taking all those loose bits and making a stove while you guests watch is like showing off a new bit of "art"
I agree with you here Dave; but i think i'd keep it with a bit of kero thus when showing off you can light it off and really have a show. my two bits worth lance
I like the 96 more to be honest, it has a high output, but a small tank, which is its main drawback. Even if the pump leather or NRV is shot, one or two primes will see the stove self pressurise and away you go, plus they will simmer well. If you don't mind filling up every now and then, its a good backpacking stove. We used a lot of 96's at school when 'wild camping' and don't remember any of us loosing bits. Put a polished No.5 on a shelf (maybe as a bookend), now that looks nice In fact, I use my last remaining Tilley as a door stop
Ended up picking up a Burmos No. 21. Both Primus models exceded the price limit I gave myself. At any rate this is a nice little stove as well. Needs some cleaning, but all seems to be there. I have little experience with Kero burners, so I may be back with questions soon.
My Burmos 21 I particularly like. Mine has a tin in reasonably good shape. It is one of the ones with the very nicely incised tank; the later ones were plain tanks, with a label put on. Mine also has a feature I haven't seen in photos of other B21s-- a copper, rather than brass, spirit cup. I like the chained fuel cap; helps solve the "loose bits" problems of the classic keroburners....
I'm w/ Ed, if it's use you're after, it's all about the 00. I've had and used both in the field, if all you are doing is boiling water, sure, the 96 will do you grand. That is of course if you don't loose one of the supports or other loose bits. My 1st 96 arrived w/out a spirit cup, hmmm, why was it put on ebay I wonder? (PS, thanx again, Ross for said needed parts, for both my 96 and 00 come to think of it) 00 are hard to beat in the field, durable, reliable and for the most part, REALY EASY to fix when/if needed.
Mine also has the ingraved tank. I have the chained fuel cap, however not the part of the adjustment valve it attached to. It looks like the adjustment valve has been replaced by a slot-screw...no big deal. How hard is it to find a proper valve for this model, or is this a pretty generic piece?
Well after some quick cleaning I thought I'd go for a test burn. After filling the priming cup and lighting it, I follow the instructions and close the valve and begin pumping. The tank seems to build pressure, but quickly dissipates. The pump leather seems okay, but might need replacing. Any other suggestions for a kerosene newby?
try it out...kero is safe enough... I watched that video of the 96 and felt perfectly at home lighting my first kero stove
Have you replaced the fuel cap seal? O rings work well.. Also the NRV valve at the bottom of the pump tube has a tiny rubber seal.
The filler cap washer is probably hard and not sealing properly so you're losing pressure from there. Cut a new one using nitrile rubber and you should be away. As a general rule, do a dunk-test with an unknown stove. Pump it up with an empty tank, sealing the nipple with a finger. Dunk the stove in a bucket of water. A stream of bubbles will reveal any leaks...
Not sure what this is...does the pump tube come all the way out on these models? When I have time I will take a picture of this stove and all it's parts...maybe then some of you can help me identify what's going on. Firstly, better get some pump leathers.... Thanks folks.
The NRV (non-return valve - sometimes called a check-valve) lives at the bottom of the pump tube. If you pull the pump rod out and look down the pump tube, you'll see the head of the NRV. It consists of a small rubber seal which is held by spring pressure against the air outlet at bottom end of the pump tube. It works in exactly the same way as a tyre valve - lets air in but not back out. If it fails, the pressure in the tank forces air and/or fuel back out up the pump tube. You will need the correct sized tool to remove an NRV otherwise you'll shear it off. From experience, if the NRV is working OK, then leave it alone - if it ain't broke, don't fix it! Only if you unsolder it. Do a dunk-test as I suggested - pound to a penny the filler cap seal needs replacing...
I'd consider that a last resort, as has been said look to replacing seals and fettling the NRV first.
