Trangia 25+27 capacity question for field use

Discussion in 'Stove Forum' started by ArcticStoves, Dec 4, 2019.

  1. ArcticStoves

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    Hm...I have always heard here that if one is to get a Trangia, it is best to go the Duossal route, but the Hard Anodized or even the Non-Stick blend in better into my surroundings, and I am primarily a water-boiler or snow-melter...

    So, HA versus Duossal for dent-resistance?

    I could also stick the 2019 Whisperlite International into the Trangia 25, a sort of Yukon Kap Arctic, is HA or Duossal better for this---not planning to do it, but might have to if my multiple alcohol burner mushing stove prototype does not prove out...

    I have the luxury of time, as Canada's postal service is crammed full of Xmas parcels until around 28 Dec...
     
  2. Lennart F Sweden

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    I bet the HA will be faster on melt/boil but less dent-resistive - as Duossal 2.0 has a thinner stainless layer than its ancestors the difference would probably be less significant.:-k:-k:-k
     
  3. ArcticStoves

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    Hm...now, here in Canada, the Mountain Equipment Co-op as well as Canadian Outdoor Equipment, sell Trangia 25 Duossal. Oddly, here, Duossal is actually cheaper than the T25 HA particularly the HA upper and lower windscreens.

    I can't paint the pots as when you double-stack cook the pots the 2nd pot base sits as a sort of lid on the lower pot. Don't want paint in food...!

    So...any experience in painting the T-25 Duossal's UL aluminum windscreen, upper and lower? I have access to Krylon spray paint and VHT (very high temperature) spray paint....but I am leery mixing spray paint, even properly cured, on the windscreen, and food!

    Or is simply buying HA better?

    Hm....

    If we're lucky, the ice fog will burn off, and around 1130PST the will rise, and with some luck we might see it today! It might look like this!

    P1016688.JPG
     
  4. dwarfnebula

    dwarfnebula United States Subscriber

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    The windscreens with the duossal kit are the same aluminum as the UL kit, only the pots and pan get the stainless liner. The HA windshields look better but I doubt there’s any other benefit than that.

    I would not paint the windshields, I would not want any of it wearing off and making its way into my food.
     
  5. BradB

    BradB United States Subscriber

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    I bought the 27 in nonstick and the 25 HA. Later Trangia started offering the duossal. I like both of mine so much I see no need for another. Brad
     
  6. Marc

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    Muriatic acid will etch aluminum and give a dull grey appearance.

    I've used VHT clearcoat on my 8R case. It's handled the heat just fine, I'd have no concerns about using similarly rated paint on a Trangia windscreen.
     
  7. ArcticStoves

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    Hm, some good points here...

    7 years ago I might have done the Muriatic Acid or Hydrochloric Acid treatment to the exterior T-25 Duossal pots, but my high-school science teaching days at the small but complete French Canadian school are over, so no more lab access for me! I could have worked it into a lesson! But not now!

    Maybe some VHT in coyote brown? I use a black carbon felt windscreen around the Meta-50, so likely will do the same with a Trangia 25. So it's really the pots and the lid that will shine the most...hm...
     
  8. ArcticStoves

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    Hm...now, didn't Trangia make Orange T-25's at some point? Wonder what sort of spray paint they used? Coyote brown would do for me!

    Hm, food safe spray paint, there's a poser.....
     
  9. Lennart F Sweden

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    During most part of 1980's and 90's Trangia used a red outside on all nonstick parts that in some cases get an orange appearance by bleaching.
     
  10. Lennart F Sweden

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    They made a special version with even the windscreen and kettle lid in red.
     
  11. snwcmpr

    snwcmpr Subscriber

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    Muriatic acid is the active ingredient in Bar Keepers Friend in the US.
    You could get some citric acid from the grocery store.
     
  12. ArcticStoves

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    Hm, citric acid I suppose in solution, to kill the shine of the windscreen and outside of the pots....I suspect my hand-washing the Meta-50 in dishwasher machine powdered soap, after soaking in a cooler, has had a similar effect on the Meta-50, as it is Grey now not Shiny!

    What sort of Citric acid solution, and for how long?
     
  13. snwcmpr

    snwcmpr Subscriber

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    I use a random solution. There are documents online that define the citric acid powder to water ratio to achieve a particular acidity.
     
  14. ArcticStoves

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    Hm...not having taken the shine off of a T-25 before, I have no idea what the right ratio for citric acid might be. I could try soaking one in hot dishwasher detergent, as this seems to have worked on the Meta-50, seems a bit harsh, but it did take off all the meths soot as well...still wondering about HA versus Duossal for durability...lots of time to ponder as we're down to about 90 mins of direct sunlight as we near the winter solstice-longest night, in the Yukon!
     
  15. ArcticStoves

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    Merry Xmas All!

    Big Weather overhead, huge wind gusts, so put off wildlife watching scheduled for this morning, will have to Try Another Day when the winds are not howling..

    Some developments here, I have been given some gift cards for which my family could not figure out how to use for that place named after huge river in South America...so am mulling over a Trangia 25 in HA from that 'river'....

    But whilst checking for same used on the Bay of Evil, came across Hungarian mess kit cans, Aluminum, in Swedish surplus enmanskok.

    Reading up on Enmanskok here, comparing approximtive shipping weights, it would appear that Trangia 25 HA and Enmanskok are both around 850gr in weight, though the T25 can be run much lighter than that without strap, one pot, Ti Evernew burner, etc...

    So, any experiences with these Hungarian-Swedish Enmanskok stove kits? Hungarian aluminum 1.5L pot would seem to be the right size for 2 boil in the bag entrés...

    So, T25 HA versus Hungarian-Swedish Enmanskok, in cold weather, on snow?
     
  16. Lennart F Sweden

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    I have no hands on experience of the hungarian version of the "Wehrmacht" mess kit but the original and "Nato" german, polish, czech and norwegian versions are considerably lighter than the swedish m40/m44 kits the "enmanskök" was made for.
     
  17. Lennart F Sweden

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    Swedish m40alu(most common) mess kit(NC61) without "enmanskök" is 2 parts 520 grams together - the taller norwegian 3 part Nato mess kit(marked NHA 75) is 498 grams complete - 104 grams lighter without inner pan and fits well in "enmanskök" - most german style kits are lower and lighter than the norwegian but share size of the kidney shape.
     
  18. ArcticStoves

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    Ok, so I glean from this that there are some viable mess kit pots in the 500gr range to put in the original Swedish pot support. I have found one Swedish source of original Swedish M-40 complete kits, but the postage to Canada is discouragingly three times the cost of the M-40. Any hints on closer sources?

    I feel like the cards are stacked towards the Trangia 25 HA, but I am open to M-40 if it will do the job----T25 HA I think will do better on snow, as I already have an insulated+heat reflective underpad for it, and carbon felt insulation set up for the similar-sized Meta-50....

    Thanks for the exact weights for compatible mess kits!
     
  19. Marc

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    I came across an M40 and M44 via random Craigslist find. They're out there, if you keep your eyes open.
     
  20. Hazet

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