Hi, As my 111T box is quite worn, lots of paint missing and patches of rust here and there, I figured I might as well give it a nice repaint. The obvious paint to use would be Hammerite, I guess - but I thought I'd paint it yellow, partly because I like the colour, partly because it will make it a lot easier to spot in the crowd (I go hiking with a group of scouts every now and then - 111s are thick on the ground then!) Now, after having looked at what is available locally, I am considering a product available at the local garage - paint for brake calipers. (The idea being that as it needs to withstand much the same abuse as the paint on a stove box, it would be a nice match - heat, stone chips, solvents - it has to take it all in its stride.) Does anyone have any opinions as to suitability? Any other recommendations for paints/lacquers to use? Thanks in advance!
I have used High Temp paint on all my engine rebuilds and brake caliper paint also. I use the paint on all my stove rebuilds. They come in an assortment of colors. Here in the states the paint temps can run up to 1,200 degree Fahrenheit-648 Celsius. Bright yellow with some zombie flowers would look cool.
@HercL4D2 The topic of painting with these very high temperature-tolerant paints occurs often. You obviously have experience with using them. Do they discolour when used in a naked stove flame?
Thank you, @HercL4D2 - couldn't see any reason why it wouldn't do the job, but good to know that someone has tried and succeeded in the same endeavour. Anyway, that is another challenge for another day; tonight's issue: Get rid of the lacquer remains on my early nineties '00 - at first when I started cleaning it, I thought there were only a couple of small thin patches; now that it is clean, it is clear that my 00 has lost its factory coating on approx. 1/3 of the surface! Oh well. I'll strip the rest of the lacquer off, polish it like there's no tomorrow and then hope I can do a decent job of applying a new coat; I happen to have a small bottle of brass topcoat in the shed. Come to think of it, maybe I'll practice on a couple of empty beer cans first. Added bonus: first step would be to empty said cans. (Not really; the lacquer fumes is likely to make me plenty woozy enough on their own.)
@shagratork High Temp paint has worked well, I have not seen any discoloration on any stove in my collection. @LB1LF There is a process on how to apply new Lacquer on a brass stove. Just do not use any brass cleaners or any thing that contains Ammonia. Ammonia changes the metal structure of Brass and leads to cracking. The procedures for this is some where in the forums. Polishing Brass is best done using Automotive wet-dry sand paper, elbow grease and distilled water. You will be able to get a mirror shine with no lines. You will want a grit of 3000 up to 6000. Evil Bay has the sand paper and so does your local auto paint stores.
@HercL4D2 - Thanks for the tip - I had the ammonia bit sorted, and was trying to figure out the best way of polishing it, so your insights are most welcome! I was considering wet/dry sand paper, but was concerned about getting the sandpaper into any nook and cranny; one option is to use wet sand paper for the bulk of the tank, then use a few of the soft, small polishing disks for my dremel to get to wherever I am not reaching properly using sand paper. Eventually, I will get it to a mirror shine, though - enough elbow grease always works wonders in that department. I am more concerned about applying new lacquer; obviously, I'll need to apply it very sparingly to avoid running - but I am also considering thinning it a bit to lessen the risk of brush strokes being visible. I've got some scrap brass lying around - guess I'll do a couple of test runs before committing to the 00.
@LB1LF You need not worry about the sand paper getting into nooks and cranny's. It is so fine of grit that it will rinse off with just running water. I make clocks with old 2.5 and 3.5 inch hard drives and they polish up to a mirror shine. The residue is easily removed. Applying the Lacquer is done by heating the lacquer and pouring it over the stove. Somewhere in the Fettling forums is the process for that. http://www.gsa.gov/portal/content/112778 http://www.ospreymetalfinishers.co.uk/stove-lacquering/ Looks like automotive spray lacquer can be used rather than the dip or brush method.
@HercL4D2 - Thanks again, most informative. I've been reading up a bit on the posts in the Fettling forum. While mostly inspiring awe in the skills people around here have collectively amassed, they've also taught me quite a bit. As for the sand paper, English is my third language and sometimes it shows; what I was trying to say (cough) was that I was concerned that it would be difficult to get to all the hard-to-reach parts - say, where the pump tube joins the tank, for instance, or in the seam between tank bottom and top - and that I would therefore not get an even finish. Kids and chores permitting, I'll give it a go sometime this weekend - I got some suitable sand paper at work today; we use it for polishing the ends of optical fibers. (I'll try it out on some hideous brass candlesticks first to make sure the results are satisfactory!)
Welcome @LB1LF I have no experience with putting new lacquer on brass stoves. I like my brass threeleggers to have patina. Except the shelfqueens. But I have fettled a few 111 tins. First I use electrolysis to get rid of old paint and rust.Then I use very fine sandpaper or steel wool. VHT paint in Norway is mostly black or silver I have found. I have used a Hammerite paint that is not VHT type. But the colour is not too far from the original. I got it from Tools. To protect the paint in the bottom of the tin from meths spill and heat from the burner, I put some aluminium sheet there. But after some use the colour elsewhere in the tin will become miscoloured. If the 111 is to be a user I have used black VHT paint from Biltema. Good look with your fettling. Best regards Bjørn
