Kenyon Homestrand Mariner 205-32a leaks kerosene

I know this is a stupid question, but I am brand new to this, and I would really appreciate some help. I looked for an answer elsewhere, but I have not been able to find it.

A while back, I purchased a Kenyon Homestrand Mariner 205-32a alcohol stove. For various reasons, I decided to convert it to burn kerosene. From reading comments on your forum, I learned I would need to purchase the Svea kerosene burners, because mine were the dedicated alcohol burners (not the Sveas with the alcohol jets). In any case, I was not able to find satisfactory Svea burners, so I eventually broke down and purchased Hanse #1 burners from The Base Camp in the UK. They were expensive but a great German made replacement for the Svea burners.

So, I finally assembled everything, and it leaks where the burners thread into the cylindrical burner bases. My problem is I am not sure what kind of gasket or sealer to use. To compound the issue, I cannot just screw the burners and burner bases together until they are tight, because the spindles/adjustment knobs have to face the front of the stove. I have experimented with multiple fiber washers trying to get just the right knob angle once they are tight, but it has not worked. I finally had to make it just barely light...and kerosene leaked all over the place. I have considered using pipe dope on the treads, but I do not know how well it will hold up to the preheating.

As a side note: I had to use some pipe dope where the fuel supply pipes thread into the burner bases, because of the same reason. I would like them more tight, but then they do not face straight up as required.

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you.

 

Hi, have a look at the drawings and parts list for the Hanse burner. Did you use the washers specified?

http://www.base-camp.co.uk/exploded views/Optimus/207 burner.htm

Best Regards,
Kerophile.

 

Hi,

You may have to make a spacer or possibly use a brass or copper washer. Brass and copper will compress so you can get the extra 1/2 turn to make the spindle face the front of the stove. You will also have to use a burner gasket on both sides of the spacer or washer. Once you have the burner tightened down you shouldn't have any more leaks. This is just a simple solution for the problem and I'm sure there are others here that have faced the same problem who may have a much better idea for solving the problem.
I hope this helps.

Cheers,
Norman

 

Thank you all so much for the speedy and informative replies. I was so frustrated last night, I could't sleep.

Just a little background:
This is my very first stove. I stumbled across it at an estate sale about a year and a half ago. From looking around the house, it was obvious the prior owner had been an avid boater. The stove looked cool, and I thought it deserved some new life. I purchased it for $20 and have been dumping time and money into it on an intermittent basis. Most of what I have learned has been from this forum. I finally joined to ask this question, and the response has been very refreshing.

Kerophile,
I looked at your drawings and parts list--I feel I did just what they suggested. I did try various washers of different thicknesses. I even tried them in different combinations. It just seemed that no matter what I tried, the burners were either tight, or the valves were facing forward, but never both at the same time.

Teckguy,
I think I will try the copper washer next. On one burner, it actually got tight about 1/4 turn past the point where the valve was pointing front. That meant I had to go 3/4 of a turn further or back up...I backed it up, and it leaked.

After thinking it over, I believe these are all one time use washers, and I have crushed them in my various attempts.

At this point, my plan is to locate and purchase several more washers of various types and thicknesses. I think I will try the copper washer as suggested with the gaskets on both sides of it--unless you think I am off base.

It sounds like The Base Camp would be my best bet to locate those washers/gaskets, and I shall try that right now.

My other issue relates to the burner bases where they thread onto the fuel supply nipples. I am having the same issue with those connections, but I used pipe dope on those joints. This appears to have worked, but the burners move easily when bumped---because they are not tight. In each case, the burners just don't line up with they are threaded on tightly, so I have had to back them off (the tight position) by about a half a turn.

Again, thank you so much for you assistance. You have no idea how much it is appreciated.

 

Hi, if you have not already see them, here are two links which are relevant to your current efforts. The first is a general post on heat resistant washers and fitting them:

https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/heat-resistant-burner-washers-and-fitting-them.8382/

The other heips one understand what goes on inside a regulated burner:

https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/regulated-burner-cutaway.15697/

Best Regards,
Kerophile.

 

Kerophile,
Thanks again. Great pictures. Do you still sell the heat resistant burner washers?

 

Hi, @Mariner205-32A . I no longer sell HR washers but they can be purchased from both Base Camp the Fettle Box:


https://fettlebox.co.uk/stove-seals-washers.html


Best Regards,
Kerophile.

 

Hi kerophile,

I just received an email from Fettle Box. I may purchase from him.

In the meanwhile, I purchased several different types of crush washers from my local Pep Boys auto parts store. If I get a chance, I will drain the stove and try some of those today.

I was wondering if you have any thoughts on using Teflon tape or pipe dope.

Thank you,

Mariner205-32a

 

Hi, I reckon pipe dope and PTFE tape are "fixes" and should not really be needed if you have the correct heat-proof washers of the right material.
PTFE can decompose at burner temperatures and thread dope can make later burner removal very difficult, if not impossible.

With a boat stove you need reliablility and the ability to fix things if they go wrong, so it is best to get to know your stove and how it operates, so that if there is a problem later you will be able to diagnose the issue and get the stove operating again.
Just my thoughts.
Best Regards,
Kerophile.

 

Hey Kerophile!

Thanks you very much for sticking with me on this--I finally got it!

I was not able to find a crush washer at any of my local hardware stores, but I found some at a Pep Boys auto supply. I believe they were actually born to be oil drain plug washers for a BMW. They are aluminum with a 14.5 ID. Using these crush washers, I was able to hand tighten the burners to a 1/4 turn short of facing front. I cut a piece of 1/8 thick rubber gasket material and wrapped it around the cylindrical burner base. I put a pair of vice grips over that. I used a 19mm open end (spanner) wrench on the burner and managed to get the final 1/4 turns without marring the burner bases very much (the vice grips did cut trough the rubber just a little bit).

As far as the fuel pipes, I finally used the same vice grip technique and wrenched the burner bases an extra half turn to line them up properly...NO LEAKS!

Tomorrow I shall purchase some denatured alcohol for preheating.

Thank you very much.

 

Hi,

Glad to hear you've had success in getting your burners positioned properly. Well done Mariner205-32A.
I'm looking forward to seeing some flame shots.
I'm also looking forward to seeing the Hanse #1 burners in action.

Cheers,
Norman

 

Hi, great news on your progress.
I don't know if you need it but here is some advice on priming kerosene stoves:

The thing to remember with any kerosene burner, and particularly a silent model, is that the priming stage only heats the burner sufficiently to get it started.
The full operating temperature is not achieved until the burner has been running for a few minutes, when you can then increase tank pressure or further open the regulator valve.

With kerosene stoves, If you start with too high a tank pressure, or fuel flow through a regulator, you flood the vaporiser with liquid kerosene, get liquid coming through the jet, and quench the previously hot metal of the vaporiser. The result is a flare up of liquid kerosene with copious yellow (fuel-rich) flames. All you can then do is shut off the fuel, re-prime, and start all over again.

Running a kerosene fuelled stove is quite different from one using gasoline or coleman fuel.

Best Regards,
Kerophile.

 

Teckguy_58,
Thank you. First I have to get it burning properly...then I have to figure out how to attach a photograph! That's right, I'm not good with technology either.

Kerophile,
Thank you very much for your tips. I was not aware of the exact procedure as you have outlined it.

I had no idea I should start the flow slowly after the preheating process. My stove has adjustable spindle valves and the pressurizing pump. It sounds like I should follow the following check list:

Only pump the tank about 5 strokes
According to Hanse instructions: Preheat with denatured alcohol for about 2.5 minutes.
Open the spindle valve slightly
Light the burners and let them burn for a couple minutes
Pump up the tank (I'm thinking about 10 more strokes)
Open the valve further.

My questions:
1. Does my above list sound accurate?
2. How much denatured alcohol should I use in preheating?
3. What type of container/bottle do you suggest for the denatured alcohol? I think I should have something with a long spout to reach down to the spirit dish.
4. With the adjustable spindle valves, can I just pump the tank with about 15 to 20 strokes to begin with, and then use the spindle valve to start with a very low flow. I'm guessing not, because the spindle valves seem to have a very short range and a slight turn of the knob may increase the flow of fuel way too fast.
Thank you very much,

Greg

 

Hi, so many questions....
Your point 4 is quite valid. You can have the tank well pressurised and then rely on the regulator valve to control fuel feed/ power. Many boat stove users leave the tank pressurised between spells of stove use, but others de-pressurise tank to ensure no leakage of kerosene should a seal or regulator be disturbed.

As you have noted the control range of the regulator is very limlted. Only 1/4 to 1/3 turn between fully closed and cleaning needle fully raised, with the full power setting half-way between these limits.

I am not familiar with the provision for holding the priming charge on your particular stove. Here is a link to an idea you might incorporate in your stove:

https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/making-up-some-spirit-cup-wicks.31218/

Best Regards,
Kerophile.

 

Priming bottles:

https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/spirit-bottles-for-stove-priming.12702/

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_f...bottles.TRS0&_nkw=Nitro+fuel+bottles&_sacat=0

Best Regards,
Kerophile.

 

According to these instructions:

https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/homestrand-mod-205a-1975-kenyon.29234/

The spirit cup should be 3/4 fillied with pre-heating alcohol.

Best Regards,
Kerophile.

 

A manual!
Thank you so much!
I am sorry to be such a pain in the butt.
Thank you very much kind Sir,

Greg

 

I was excited to try it out...

I filled the spirit cups over 3/4 full. I tried preheating them for between 2.5 minutes to about 8 minutes (preheating multiple times each). I tried barely pressurizing the fuel tank, I tried barely turning the valves...but nothing worked. Apparently, I just cannot preheat these Hanse burners to a temperature that is high enough to properly vaporize the kerosene. I just kept getting a terrible sooty yellow flame.

Finally, I got out my propane blow torch and heated the burners to the point where parts turned cherry red. Finally, one burner was able the produce a nice blue flame, but not the other. In the process I melted both the fiberglass wicks that I had purchased with the Hanse burners.

After reading around, it appears others have also had issues trying to preheat the Hanse burners.

Frustrated in stove land.

 

Hi, you got the leak issue resolved!
I do not have a Homestrand Mariner, nor a Hanse regulated burner so I am ill equipped to make detailed comments.
However, the Hanse burner is a fair chunk of metal to heat so you need to be out of drafts and low temperatures for best results.
Have a look at this thread on making a windshield:

https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/windshield-for-heinze-geniol-military-stove.32476/


Be careful if you intend to heat a regulated burner with a gas torch. It is relatively easy to melt braze joints, or the brass tubing itself, if you mis-judge the temperature. Uneven heating can also be a problem and can cause high stresses in the burner assembly by differential expansion/contraction.

Have you contacted the seller of the burner so see what he suggests. Fitness for purpose is a key principle of our Sale of Goods legislation.

Best Regards,
Kerophile.