Innumerable Primus

Like many things there are lots of different views out there on neutralising acid flux, all that is needed is something alkaline to neutralise the remaining acidity and plenty of water to wash everything away.

Personally, after the collar repair, on the outside of the joint I would mix up some bicarbonate of soda with water, scrub with an old toothbrush and rinse with plenty of water. The inside of the joint within the tank is trickier- if you can find or modify some sort of brush to reach it to do the same that would be ideal. If not then swilling the inside of the tank with a dilute solution is next best, followed in either case by several flushes of water.

This sort of thing is impossible to do effectively when soldering something like insulated multistrand electrical cable, where the flux will be drawn away out of reach under the insulation by capillary action. It will then corrode the copper, hence resin fluxes being used instead.

Above all avoid any cleaning product containing ammonia, which may accelerate stress cracking in brass! An ongoing debate on here, as a quick search for the topic will show.

Hope all this makes sense, happy to clarify if not!

@Boreas certainly healing well thank you, although some way to go yet. It's been a near miss and subsequent rough ride though some mistakes on the way, need I say more?!

 

What about the bicarb of soda and water in the tank...then toss in a handful of ball bearings and swirl them around awhile.....then water rinse...just a thought.

 

I ordered some new bits from "Tilley Lamps and Stove's" on ebay. Excellent supplier. And so, in keeping with its long history, the stove will again have new parts added.
So, now I have a burner ring, a brass methanol flask, some spare gaskets, and nozzle cleaning picks. The pot ring I ordered unfortunately did not fit, that may be a tricky item to come by.
We're getting close to firing this stove up for real.

 

@Boreas As I'm sure you're aware, the original pan rings/trivets/grates (loads of names, the last one is common in the US) were usuaĺly cast iron before roughly the mid 1920s. These were brittle and easily broken, many stoves carry later replacements or none at all. They are probably hard to come by where you are, but well worth looking out for as they really set off an earlier stove.

The brass meths containers are great, the meths is hygroscopic and the absorbed water tends to eat through the tinplate steel of the original versions.

 

Well, it's been over a year, but I've finally gotten to fixing this stove. It took a bit of solder, a new fuel cap gasket, and a thorough nozzle cleaning, but it finally roars.
I tested it out on a breezy day, and found the flame to be sensitive to sudden gusts. I looked away a minute and the flame died and I was left with kerosene to clean up. I've also made a wind screen out of some sheet brass, hopefully that'll do some good.

 

Excellent!

Windscreens are essential in breezy weather. I use 9-plate aluminium folding windscreens a lot when outdoors.

Cheers

Tony

 

end of 1894 -as We see - was the begining of "new shape" of tank
then - hex pump absence - create "end 1894 to 1895"

 

Thanks gieorgijewski, that narrows it down some.
Any idea what the plate on top of the spirit cup is for? And why it's chained to the stove?

 

Hi @Boreas . The circular plate is a heat shield to reduce the amount of radiant heat heating the fuel tank.

Primus #1/#5 heat shield

Best Regards,
Kerophile.

 

Thank you Kerophile. Makes sense to me, don't want your fuel tank getting too warm. Perhaps I'll make one as well.