Ok so my question is who keeps the built cleaning needle in place and who removes theirs? If you are burning clean camp fuel or kerosene how much clogging does one actually get? This is more of a curiosity for me than anything else.
I remove them from 1233Rs, 8R's and 99's. I note improved performance when the infernal needle is gone. This does necessitate procuring the proper size jet prickers to clean the orifices as needed. The one stove I have that shows no improvement in performance with the internal needle removed is my 111B, so I put it back. Gerry
Morning, I think, properly installed and adjusted, the internal cleaning needle can be a plus, without really taking away from your stoves performance. But, many folks simply do not take the time and set this up properly, for one reason, or another. I never remove them, but do have one 99 that came to me without a needle, and it works just fine. A separate jet pricker had been placed inside the case of this stove, and so I just leave it as it was given to me. No problems, one way, or the other. Take care, and God Bless! Every Good Wish, Doc
I go by the "if it ain't broke ... " rule. I have two clones of the 8R and 123 where a damaged needle/block was removed and not replaced. On the little Optimus stoves, I occasionally remove the needle to try to diagnose a stove issue. But then I put it back. I think they work well and a few times a quick twist of the control did help the flame. So I think they do work. At home I don't mind using a pricker, but out camping, I sure as hell would misplace it eventually.
Thanks for the inputs. I am still new to these but I have found that some stoves it appears do not like them. I have a 123R that with out one it shuts off but with one even at 3 clicks you have to blow it out. I have the same thing going with a 111B. I just received what I think is a early 111T and broke it down cleaned it and then fired the burner last night. I have a known good tank and I test them with out the cleaning needle. I was just wondering to my self if they were worth it. I have a number of Coleman stoves and lanterns but I cannot use them as a reference of function as they are either automatic in that when they are off the needle is through the jet or I am using the needle to control the flame on 520, 530 and M-1942 stoves.
I leave mine in place and really only have had issues with a couple of stoves from the dozens of self cleaners I've had over the years. If you remove the jet you have to mess about from time to time with a jet pricker which is a lot more bother than using the built in cleaner.
I start out with 5 and work down from there. The more clicks the deeper the cleaning needle recesses in to the vaporizer. With all but two stoves so far they are in the 4-5 range and work fine.
At 3 clicks the needle is not going deep enough to shut of the fuel flow, that is why you need to blow it out.
Ok so to understand the statement that the cleaning needle should act to cut off the flow of fuel when it bottoms out? I was looking at the design and interprited it to be that the tapered end of the control rod was the seal.
Yes. It is a tapered end on the regulator. That is why it works with or without the needle. But the needle set wrong can stop the spindle turning in far enough to shut off the fuel off. See this link for a cut away view. https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/15697 Needle down. Shut of fuel Needle up. Clean jet Needle half way. Cooking This is the case on most stoves with internal needles but there are exceptions. Some old primus burners, Phoebus 625 (i think) are 2 examples on which the needle up shuts off the fuel. So yes you are correct, my previous post was not correct. I was being lazy. Sounds like you know what you are doing. Dan
Dan, Thank you for that link, that is awesome. It is one thing to try and visualize the relationship and function with a idea of interaction and a complete other to be able to see it and know what is going on.
