The start of the new year, and I thought I would make my own stove from scratch - tank, pipes, burner. I wanted it to have a cylindrical kerosene tank like a 111 , and I also wanted it to be small enough to fit inside standard British rectangular mess tins. Here is how I did it. Tank First off, I found this video link extremely useful, although I didn't use a lathe. You need brass pipe (50mm diameter, 1mm wall), brass plate (1mm thick), 8mm copper tubing and a 8mm right angle elbow fitting (standard British plumbing fitting). Cut off a section of pipe (100mm) and cut two circles from the brass sheet about 60 mm diameter. Then cut a circle from hardwood about 25mm thick and about 45mm diameter. The brass circles are formed into the two end caps over the wooden former, as shown in the video link above. The circles are hammered over the wooden former to produce the end 'cups', and several intermediate anneals are required, before the caps fit tightly into the ends of the pipe. End cap 1 is left blank, but end cap 2 will eventually have the hole for the pump. The end caps need to be a tight fit all round the inside circumference of the pipe so that a good pressure tight solder joint can be made later. Next bend a length of 8mm tubing to produce the curve necessary to empty the tank when transferring the fuel in use. I used dry salt to fill the tube before bending, but you can use dry fine sand. Anneal the tube first to soften it, then crimp the ends of the tube when full, and bend by hand, Cut off the crimped ends. Then drill a 8mm hole in the centre of the pipe, fit the tube and braze (Silverflo 55). The tube in the pictures above had already been nickel plated as a test (more on that later). Then drill a hole for the filler tube, and after wrapping the transfer tube with wet rags so its braze doesn't remelt, braze on the filler tube. This was also off a scrap Primus 96 which I filed to fit the curvature of the pipe before brazing. The pump I used was an old pump and tube, also from a scrap Primus 96, with both the tube and pump shaft cut down to fit inside the tank. The pump tube OD is about 15mm, so drill a 15mm hole near the top of end cap 2. You will also need to make a thick brass 'washer' with a 15mm hole in it to reinforce the braze area for the pump tube connection. Joint the tube and washer onto the end cap in a single braze operation. Clean up the cap circumference and make sure it is a good fit in the pipe, clean everything again then solder in both end caps Fit a new pump leather and filler lid seal, then assemble the pump and leak test under pressure and under water. Plating I used this link to get instructions for both copper and nickel plating (the nickel plating link is included in this copper plating document). I cleaned the tank and fittings as normal - citric acid, steel wool, kerosene rinse, dry and then a meths final clean. I plated the fittings first, using a nickel plate anode and using 6 volt DC. Time was about 30 mins before rotating the fittings 180 degrees and re-plating for another 30 mins Then I plated the tank using two nickel plate anodes in tandem for the long side, and I rotated the tank 90 degrees about the long axis every 30 mins (2 hour total). Again, I used a 6V DC source. The end caps were plated opposite a single anode for 30mins each. I was very pleased with the result.. Burner Lipstick I have described how to make a lipstick before, but this time I brazed the tapered stainless tube onto a nut from the right angle elbow fitting to be connected to the fuel transfer tube, and instead of drilling the jet into the brazed cap, I drilled and threaded a hole (4.5mm and 0.5mm pitch) for the standard nipple Then fit the gauze on the inside Burner Bell This was a simple construction made from a brass circle and four brass strips cut from brass sheet. You can cut the whole thing from one piece of brass sheet, but it wastes a lot of brass, so I cut the parts separately and brazed them together, (Silverflo 20), as shown in the drawing. The sides act like a concertina, so you can raise or lower the burner plate to increase or decrease the entrained air. Assembly This is the easy bit. Fit the horizontal end of the elbow fitting onto the tank fuel transfer pipe using a brass olive (standard British fitting) and tighten the nut. Fit the burner lipstick (using the already brazed on nut) to the vertical end of the elbow using a short piece of 8mm pipe and an olive, and tighten the burner. Leak test, then drop on a spirit cup and fit the burner bell tightly. Fill the tank to 2/3 full Prime... and pump... If the air/fuel is correct it will heat water in the mess tin/pan/ kettle and leave no soot. Size It's a small tank, which is what I wanted. It fits into the small mess tin with room for pot stand, spirit container, windshield etc. The whole lot then fits into the larger mess tin. Or you can put the large mess tin upside down on top as a lid, and secure with a strap. I'll post a couple of finished stove photos and flame shots in the Frankenstove section. Have fun.