Hi Brad, I post to suggest sticking w/MSR fuel bottles (get used to them). Vintage SIGGs (also), in-fact SIGGs do come highly recommended: initially MSR recommended SIGG (grey lid) fuel bottles. They're STILL very good but I think the bottle MSR offered soon after is an improvement (vs the SIGG). Re your > "For the MSR and Sigg fuel bottles I have tried every type of pouring spout and they all leak or drip." >> I say you "should" be able to carry / transfer fuel w/o drips or leaks and w/o any extra pieces. All MSR fuel bottles, at some point, had their standard cap w/2 points molded into it. The points align w/holes in the threads, for use as a pour-cap. Most pre-childproof MSR caps have these holes but I have some w/o holes (& if so, carefully holes can be added to those). I'm content w/pour caps (SIGG has one also) and have little use for additional pour spout caps or even funnels. Like you I've found the trangia helpful and i'm impressed w/presscall's add-on. When I used to camp a lot I filled stoves slowly with experiences like you shared. Just BTW, some stoves have fill tubes that by-design extend down into tanks, those tubes add to this spill frustration during filling. Lately I might quickly fill 2 or 3 stoves side-by-side for testing and will share a hint that I now use. By-design a stove's "filling" is determined with stove level and I ACCEPT I might spill drops of fuel (careful about where). Re stove level, for example you can cheat by tilting a tank to allow adding of more fuel, still tilted close the cap (now overfull, don't do that). SIMILARLY consider the OPPOSITE: While filling, tilt the tank to allow less fuel. THEN when you see it nearly "brimming" quickly set stove level, fuel level subsides AND you're very quickly almost to a "filling". Again accept there may be slight spillage but it's a very quick method to fill (vs dripping it in). Critics may chime-in re overfill... Ideally, YOU manage it, tilt it to allow quickly filling most of the tank (vs dripping it in) but just up to a point of nearly a "filling", not overfull. Then w/stove level you can top it off to a proper filling. thx omc
meth in nalgene sample 100 cc bottle (two fill of trangia burner) for 1 day backpacking. Gasoline in the tank of the bike (optimus clone, always in the bike top box)1 meter small bore Tigon tube to siphon from bike tank to stove. kerosene in a 5 liters steel jerrycan, in the trunk of 4x4 TERRACAN, together with 111T, just in case (stuck in snow, or just a plate of spaghetti for me and my assistants)
Meths/alcohol in 500ml PET mouthwash bottles. Coleman/panelwipe in 500 ml PET mouthwash bottles marked with ted tape. Kerosene in bulk tank and 1 or 2 litre PET soft drink bottles. No spouts, no O rings, no transfer pumps, no fancy branded containers. Pour enough in to do the job, when finished, pour whatever is left back into the container. Can't see the point in completely filling a stove just to make a brew. Terry
Love the Trangia push button pouring cap! Remember @Radler posting this elegant and simple design https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/filling-a-stove-from-sigg-bottles.29293/#post-299139 I'm also a big fan of HDPE bottles from the lady of the house's hair colour kits Good with alcohol, acetone and ATF over months+ Not tried with petrol, white gas/Coleman or kero over time but the residue does not seem to damage them. Cheers and happy fueling and death to regrowth! Caveman (a now "outed" closet Zohan)
I've found the little rubber protectors you get on the ends of a roll of copper brake pipe fit those perfectly.
It is not recommended to use a vintage SIGG as a pressurized fuel bottle. The pressed in separate ring of thread used on the SIGG, versus the cut thread of the MSR, was found to not hold the pressure. That was why MSR started making their own fuel bottles. Ken in NC
OMC, Ken is right in that, whilst MSR once recommended the Sigg bottles, they no longer do, and haven't for many years, now. They worked fine on their oldest stoves, but there WERE some problems with over-pressure, blowing out the bottoms, to round, when users got a bit overzealous with their pumping. So, MSR designed their own bottles, which are more robust, and have cut threads in their mouths, rather than applied threads as the old Sigg bottles had. Also, the newer MSR pumps will not safely fit onto a Sigg bottle, with distortion, and eventual dangerous leaks!! So, and I agree with your comment that the MSR bottle is a definite improvement over the old Sigg bottles. I still use the Siggs, carefully, with my older stoves. But, for top safety and performance, it's MSR bottles, all the way. Take care, and God Bless! Every Good Wish, Doc
Maybe somebody should explain to our friends on the other side of the big water the difference between a water bottle, made by SIGG to carry water and a bottle for fuel under pressure, also made by SIGG. Otherwise they think, as MSR seemed to do: looks similar, is the same. Best Regards Radler
@Radler The bottles we are discussing came around long before SIGG made the water bottles you are referring to. @OMC rightly mentioned Vintage Sigg bottles. Sigg made fuel bottles at the time MSR developed the remote fuel tank stove. MSR used those bottles, sold the stoves with SIGG bottles, and later determined they are not designed for pressurized fuel containment. Those SIGG bottles are fine for carrying fuel. A conclusion, as a safety measure, would be to never use a SIGG bottle as a pressurized fuel tank. MSR, Primus, and Optimus are among the manufacturers that do make bottles designed for pressurized fuel containment. SOTO bottles will not fit the other manufacturers stove pumps. Now, these new SIGG water bottles that you refer to. I do not know what the lining is, and if they can be used for any fuels. Ken in NC
@snwcmpr ".... sold the stoves with SIGG bottles, and later determined they are not designed for pressurized fuel containment." As I wrote. So don't blame SIGG for the famous engineering from a Society named "Mountain Safety Research". Of course Wikipedia was not available at that time, so they could not know in the MSR marketing department what "Research" means. Btw. SIGG made water bottles since 1910. Swinging from tree to tree Radler
Ok, I was wrong. Water bottles and fuel bottles. I did not mean to imply that SIGG had done any wrong. Just that MSR used an existing bottle and found it was not meant/designed for pressure. So, they had to make their own bottles. I do not trust Wiki. Trying to swing with you, not against you.
I wonder if the might be part of the problem I'm having with my Coleman Apex II. The threads of the tank and pump will not hold under pressure. https://classiccampstoves.com/threa...d-of-shut-off-valve-o-ring.30422/#post-319831
Hi, To Ken and Doc: thanks for the explanation of the difference in the bottles! I'm the lone holdout in a group of family and friends who's never owned, nor was even tempted to, any MSR stove. OTOH, I've "rescued" a couple of trips with my dinosaur Svea when an MSR decided self-immolation was a good idea, and all those "early adopters" of the MSR stuff have Sveas today, though few of their MSRs are still around. The first SIGG fuel bottle I used had a metal top (mid-'60s vintage?), and used a different thread than current SIGG or MSR offerings. When SIGG went to the plastic top, I just assumed MSR's warning was a way of selling more bottles with their name on them. I didn't realize the "safety" issue was for real, and not just marketing hype. I learn something new here with every visit. Thanks, guys! Rick C
I have been getting back into the history of MSR. You can see for yourself that they really were developed for the climbing community. Melting snow to prevent dehydration. I do not want to get into a debate, I am not skilled for that. I am much too ignorant about stoves. But, there must have been some problem with the stoves at the time in providing as much water as MSR claimed it could provide. What effort/time does it take to re-fill the Primus 210 that Hillary used on Everest?? Compared to changing a 33 oz bottle on the MSR 9. In that case, I do not see the SVEA 123 as a competitor. It may be the later MSR stoves, Whisperlite, that was a stove for that market. No need to turn the stove off and keep filling the tank. But, the cool factor was lost. I do love my Sievert Sveas. Ken in NC
I use little water bottles, to dispatch fuel when I have to go, it saves weight and room. Not the safer way, I know...
There are directions? I'll have to try that method. Pouring out of those gallon cans has always been an issue for me. For carrying fuel on camping/canoeing/hiking trip I have a couple of 1 litre red Nalgene fuel containers. They are leak proof and have a handy pouring spout. I bought these around 2002 and I'm not sure they are available any longer. But if you can find them still, they're great.
Here are my favorite fuel containers - a Markill from about 1987, and a Nalgene of about the same vintage. The Markill has a spring-loaded valve to release the fuel, which works quite well without getting fuel on your fingers/hands. The Nalgene has a spout with a hole for your finger to cover to stop the flow of fuel. Again, works quite handily. Still useful with my Coleman 400A and SVEA 123 after thirty-some years! Regards to all, Tom
I have various bottles and funnels to pour fuel back....The Trangia is really good, I think. Various fuels in various bottles is not quite optimal. Sending the wife or the kids for the right bottle will be a game of chance, so I am on the look out for fuel labels/tags, like we had in the Army (a printed tag on a piece of string)....how do you keep them apart?
I also use Trangia fuel bottles. There expensive but I think they worth it. I wrote a couple of big «K» for Kerosene and «N» for naphta marked with a permanent marker on the fuel bottles to keep them apart. I tried in the past tags but there alwalys getting caught on something.
