Very impressive work you've worked miracles on this stove Well done 8) can't wait to see it finished 8) Stu
Albert, set aside your dedication to your old 53, your journal throughout has been superb. For what could be a plain and factual account of a stove fix, is lifted to an enjoyable and humorous read. How many Albert Crackleports are there out there in cyberspace ? more than one ? http://www.blogger.com/profile/01449539941146888729
Thanks guys for the encouragement. This project has not only turned out very enjoyable but there has been much learning too, how good is that ? Regarding the question from lanevitt - I believe there is only one Albert Crackleport allowed in cyberspace. More often Albert resides in a small shed near Leeds, where not only world class vintafaking is performed on all things mechanical but the finest Pickled Onions and Rhubarb Cider are produced too. http://vintafaker.blogspot.com/. Could I ask the forum readers a tech question ? I've attached a couple of pictures of the burner of No 53. Is there something missing from underneath the burner cap ? Is it the correct burner cap ? Any info would be most welcome. Thanks again for looking in, stayed tuned for more action. Once I get a new pump washer anything could happen ! Albert over and out.
I didn't see the inner burner cap in your sequence of pictures.... Rhubarb Cider !!!!!!!!!!!!! WOW that sounds the bizz !
Hi, It looks like you have no inner cap...and the outer cap looks too big. Have a look at this post and check the dimensions: https://classiccampstoves.com/posts/52575 Best Regards, Kerophile.
I've said a couple of times in this thread that the burner on Cracklepot's stove is something special and I've been doing a bit of research ... Kerophile said: That's because its from a No.5 silent burner stove and Cracklepot's burner is a Primus 4100, which is No.4 sized, so will need those inner and outer caps. Outer available from Base Camp, inner not available, but one could be silbrazed up I've the roarer burner equivalent pattern on my Primus 51SE Roarer burner equivalent of Cracklepot's burner John
Hi, John (Presscall) is correct and it does look like the silent burner from a No.4 type stove. Base Camp has outer caps but you you will need to make an inner cap if you want to rune the stove. Have a look at this post: https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/8768 Best Regards, Kerophile.
Just a word of caution about making one up from a copper end cap and it's that on heating up and cooling down a powdery black oxide forms and liberally flakes off. Aesthetically not ideal, but it can get into the jet nipple and so is probably best avoided. BernieDawg's prototype was great but he got around to silbrazing them up from steel (section of tube, washer top) to get over that problem. John
Thanks everyone for the tips and links to information. It has been most useful. I'll keep you all posted with progress. - Albert
Albert here. Reporting on this weekends shed activities. Saturday - The offer from Pete Sav of an 'original' Primus burner cap of the correct size for my No 53 was enough to get me scurrying round to his place as quick as possible to collect despite the snow forecast. I came away not only with the cap but a handful of Primus treasure.....Neoprene rubber to make seals, a jet removing spanner, a pump washer, jet prickers and information how to make my very own hens teeth of the Primus world - a size 4 burner inner cap. Thanks Pete, much appreciated. Sunday - Whilst 'Her Ladyship' a.k.a. Mrs Crackleport attended to the weekly ironing I cleared a path through the snow to my shed. Using a variation of Kerophiles NRV washer cutter I set about making one for myself. A piece of suitably sized tubing was eventually found. Formally a petrol pipe for a Briggs and Stratton stationary engine a short length was sacrificed in a good cause. Sharpened to look like a leather punch and fitted in the electric drill I was soon producing my own NRV washers. Now, it's not all plain sailing for the inexperienced. The sharp eyed among you will notice the modification to the end of my NRV.(Despite the poor focus, but it's the only pic I have.)Too much screwdriver action whilst stripping down saw the end shear. Drat and double drat ! Guess I could have bought another but where's the fun in that. I soldered a small nut on the end to hold it all together. Shhh ! Don't tell ! That's it for now. Albert over and out....
Hi Albert, I'm a newby here but I have a No.4 (I think?) inner and outer cap that I got from basecamp a while ago. I was going to see if I could use them to make a silent cap for my DragonFly but it's been a no go. The outer cap is 39mm in diameter and has 5 rows of holes. It has "Primus Sweden" on the top the inner is the one that I got at the same time. If these are of use to you just send me your address and I'll pop them in the post to you. Cheers Grebby
Greetings. Albert here. Reporting on No 53. It was going to be all action down the shed this morning. Mrs Crackleport had gone for her hair perming round at the 'Blue Rinse Salon' so what better opportunity would I have to play with matches and paraffin than whilst she was under the drier waiting for the curlers to work their magic..... First job was to test fit the inner burner cap that was kindly donated to the cause by Greeby. He'd taken pity on me when I said I'd be making my own....sending his spare in the post. Many thanks. Lovely job. The final act before ignition. Fit the Spiritburner seal kit. Another lovely job. It was then that elation turned to despair. A very dark cloud gathered over the shed...for the non-return valve would not tighten.....it spun, and spun, and spun some more. The thread was stripped....but, it would not unscrew either. Phew. A stove restorers lot is not a happy lot. Stuck deep down the depths of the pump was the troublesome fellow. The only way to recover the situation now was to remove the pump...and risk spoiling the nickel plating in the process. Draw a deep breath and fire up the blowlamp..I'm going in. Pump removed (eventually) offending NRV removed (eventually) Here's were the knowledge of the forum and Stove Grand Master Fettlers could help, for I think the pump bottom is salvageable but I'd like to chase the thread through with a tap before fitting a replacement NRV. Has anyone any idea what the thread size is ?
Fantastic restoration/fettle. It looks like you have all the information you need, but here are the parts:
Hi Albert, the thread types on classic stoves date from the end of the 19 Century and now tend to be obsolete. The "fix" if one cannot turn your own is to use near equivalents. Have a look at this thread, which may help you with your current challenge: https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/18069 Best Regards, Kerophile.
Hi Albert If you need a spare pump tube with good threads in the bottom pt me & i'll send you one , you can then de-solder the bottom plug with the thread in & re-solder onto your tube, or use the whole thing as is Best regards Stu
Hi Guys. Many thanks for the links to the thread information relating to NRVs. It has helped me on my way. I have been applying thread gauges to a serviceable NRV and also came up with the 36 tpi measurement. However the American gauge fits in the threads lovely. The Whitworth doesn't seem to 'bottom'. The external mic's up at 7.65mm, which I believe converts to 5/16" ??? So, is 5/16 x 36 tpi UNF a possibility ? Blimey, I've learnt some stuff today ! I'll keep you all posted on progress. Albert
