Remove spindle from tank SVEA 123R?

Optimus No:8R First Steps: Filler Cap & Wick

The best wick is made of cotton mop-head strands. However. nowadays you have to be careful as even mop-heads labelled up as pure cotton, often contain man-made fibres. These melt when hot and destroy the wicking function.
Before using any dry cotton wick material, try lighting it. If it chars it is likely cotton and you are good to go. If it melts do not use it as your work is wasted.

Best Regards,
Kerophile.

 

I can recommend scavenging an old wick for a kero lamp - like this:
1M Wicks Burner Round Cotton Oil Kerosene Alcohol Lamp Torch Replacement Supply | eBay
I just use a small nail to “untangle” the woven wick into straight strands as the original. Its a bit “try&Error” - too tight and you’ll block the fuel flow - too loose and it may drop down or not give you fuel enough.

 

Okay. I think I’m almost done but I have gotten this graphite packing nut thing correct. I can’t find any videos showing how this is done. Can someone please point me to instructions or a video for that aspect? I tried on my own and have a leak.

 

Are you using graphite foil or?

(Sometimes its a question of a bit more tightning?)

Supply of Graphite Foil/Tape

 

Yes using graphite tape or foil purchased on EBay as part of a rebuild kit. I cut a strip about 1/8 inch wide and wrapped it around the spindle. I cranked on it pretty hard but it leaks.

 

Ok - And you have that tiny washer - closest to the burner head - in place?
If yes, I would give it the same amount one more time and then try again?

 

The tiny washer goes on first and with the indented side leading, right? And the flat side toward the packing?

 

That would be a good guess (not sure if the siding matters a lot - as longs its there

 

I guess I’ll just do it over and see what happens. Wish there was a good video showing what to do!

Thanks!!!

 

If your nut screws all the way to the end (towards the burner head) - you need to add more graphite. When tightend you should have around three “threads” visible towards the burner.

 

Oh okay. I might need to add some more. That’s helpful about the threads!

 

“fit the metal ring on the spindle with the flat face first, FACING IN.”

The curved face of the washer should face the graphite packing!


https://classiccampstoves.com/threads/fitting-replacement-parts-on-regulated-burners.8843/

Best Regards,
Kerophile.

 

Thanks! Okay the curved face of the washer now faces the grapite packing. I'm not seeing a leak from the vaporizer at the packing nut. I can light the stove and get a decent flame. But upon shut-off there is candling. I have tried 3, 4, and 5 clicks on the needle adjustment and the candling remains. Is there another problem that can cause this? I noticed that when I took the stove apart, the cleaning needle was slightly bent. I tried to bend it straight again and it seems straight. I think it's close...

 

Hi, the fit between the cone on the end of the spindle and the matching seating in the vaporiser has to be very good, or fuel can leak past the cone and give a candle flame on the burner jet.
The rack, if incorrectly set, can stop the cone sealing properly but you seem to have eliminated that possibility by trying a variety of click settings.

If you dismantle the spindle assembly again, you will be able to examine the cone very carefully. Does it have a smooth finish over the full surface of the cone? Is there a circular depression around the cone where the spindle has been over-tightened against the matching seating?

If the cone is less than perfect you can try to re-shape it by careful re-facing using very fine (600 grade or finer) emery paper on a very flat surface such as a piece of sheet glass. Keep the workpiece and abrasive well lubricated with water and rotate the spindle to create a cone with the correct shape/ angle, and a smooth surface. Clean the spindle carefully and then coat the cone in “magic marker” ink before trying it in the vaporiser for fit. Remove after tightening and examine the inked surface to see if you have a circular sealing circle on the cone.

I hope you can understand the instructions. If you cannot get a good seal you either have to live with the candle flame (blow it out and then release tank pressure) or source a new spindle....

Trust this helps.
Best Regards,
Kerophile.

 

Different burner but same operating principle. You can see how the valve closure and cleaning needle are synchronised in this cut-away:

Regulated burner cutaway

The closed position is achieved with the control key fully clock-wise.

The "cleaning needle fully up" position occurs with the regulator key is turned fully anti-clockwise.

The maximum stove power position on a regulated burner of this type is mid-way between the closed and needle fully up positions.

There is only about 1/4 to one-third of a turn between these two positions.

You should never use the needle of a regulated burner as a throttle because you will get rapid erosion of the needle in the burner flame.

If you have fuel leaking out of the jet when the regulator knob is fully clockwise either:

The cleaning needle is preventing the needle valve from fully closing. You need to remove the jet and cleaning needle and then re-set the cleaning needle to 3 or 4 "clicks" before re-inserting the jet.

Or, the cone is not fully sealing on its seating in the needle valve. In this case either the cone needs to be re-seated or the regulator spindle replaced.

Best Regards,
Kerophile.

 

Hmmm. The candling is coming from the jet. I have tried 3, 4, and 5 clicks on the needle setting, repeatedly. The cone on the spindle is smooth, but the tip is not as pointy as I see the new ones are. Maybe I will try getting a new spindle.

Wow, I have learned so much about this little stove! I've had it for 30 years and never thought about how it worked. I just used it! Then it started leaking and malfunctioning so I started my rebuilding saga. I didn't know that about the maximum power being midway. between the off position and the cleaning position. Thanks for all the tips, gentlemen. If I ever get it completely functional, I will let you know!

 

Hi, yes I meant to type jet but packing nut came out.... apologies.

The cone does not have to be super pointy...the seal is made between Body of the cone and the matching hole in the vaporiser body.

Best Regards,
Kerophile.

 

I have 3 or 4 123r s that have the little flame after I shut them off. It’s the nature of the beast. The candle flame goes out in a minute or so. The older 123s don’t do that.
Ivan

 

I ended up getting a new spindle and that pretty much fixed it. It does candle for a few seconds after shutting off, as the previous commenter says. It burns with a nice steady blue flame, though, and seems good as new.

I consider this case closed! What a journey. I would never have been able to fix this stove without all your help! Thanks again!

 

Great outcome!