That this rather sorry specimen might be? I really can’t make out any maker or model name on it although it is pretty dirty. The frame is very rusty. I reckon I’ll set up an electrolysis tank and leave it to cook all day. Paint is a write off but might be a sort of cyan colour? The control knob is broken. If I cannot find a suitable replacement, I’ll turn one out of some hardwood. I’m hoping I have the missing pieces of the silent burner, if not I’ll hit up the Fettle Box.
Cookvel @kerophile? Nothing like. @Hugh_Manatee I don’t know what part of the world you’re from but the stove has an Australian look about it. @Tony Press may well offer some informed comment.
@Hugh_Manatee can you provide more information? Fount diameter and length. Is the base of the cooker removable? Are you certain there are no markings on the end caps or filler cap or the top of the inner burner or base of the spirit cup? Are both knobs made of Bakelite. What is the filler cap washer made of and are there markings on it? Looks like a brass fount; not copper? ‘I would rotary wire brush the stove frame first.
Hi All, I have separated the stove from the stand. I have had a really good look and cannot see any maker’s marks anywhere. Some measurements: The tank is 175 x 89 diameter. The burner is 112 from the base to the top of the flame rose. Overall height is 125. Measurements in mm. I’m not sure about threads and nut sizes. First looks suggest everything is brass apart from the preheat tray. There appears to be rust on that. The two small domed brass nuts holding the burner to the frame seemed a perfect fit for 8mm. The larger one joining the tank to the burner whilst fitting 15mm seemed unhappy to do so it being very tight. This hasn’t undone yet! Bakerlite is before my time. I think the pressure pump knob is Bakerlite, the flame control knob I’m less certain about. This is very firmly rusted to the rod: Tank and parts. Pump and flame control with the upside down filler cap. There is some paint left underneath with is indeed a cyan colour. Next steps are the chemical removal of the remaining paint and then electrolysis. I have had good results using Deox C to clean brass. Am I wrong to do this? You still need to put some effort in to clean it, but it seems to loosen everything up and sort of change the surface colour? This then cleans off quite easily to leave the brass. As the knob is very broken, once it is off I might have a go at turning one. More than likely I will ask my friend Bob to machine one out of whatever metal he has to hand. He enjoys the challenge. One other odd thing. I am assuming the frame is a pot/pan stand? Why then does the burner appear to stand up proud of it?
Most likely there would have been a trivet pressing or fabrication which sat on the frame to increase height and support vessels of various sizes, now missing.
This is an RM range stove from the 1950s/1960s. Note that your stove has the same style of filler cap. RM "Range" 320 * Note that Bakelite pump knobs were used on some of this model of stove
My first thought was RM range but those flared tank ends are so different... The stove tank certainly has a British feel about it, the frame looks utilitarian and low production run, can't place the burner regulator knob though...
@Hugh_Manatee I do hope your whisky inventory is going better than the stove identification. I gather from this thread that it has not been 100% clear what it is though some good suggestions have been made. I like the point made by @kerophile about the distinctive filler cap. I have been looking at my stoves for a similar squarish edged filler cap. My Mellius-Cobra stove certainly has that. However, the other interesting feature is the rounded off end on the air screw riser. This is not that common and I have found it on only one stove of mine so far, and that was the Gilbert J McCaul; a British made stove. Most stoves just have a 90 degree cut off at the same point. I do hope your stove is identified soon as it is interesting.
Thanks @Sedgman and everyone else. I have got most of the rust off the stand and given the tank a gentle clean. I can only think the maker name would have been a transfer of some sort? I did consider altering the stand to make it taller. I’m almost certain to mess it up so will probably keep it for reference and have a go at making one in the same style but taller. I need to find some suitable steel.
Would this work? This is the NRV from the mystery stove. The washer disintegrated as it came out and I have no idea what it was made from. I’m guessing not lead. The couple replacement valves I have a slightly smaller and have what looks like lead packing. That is a small rubber O Ring. The little piece of rubber and the spring seem fine.
Your choice of course, but the stove functioned once with its current stand/frame, so like most ranges it must have had a seperate unattached trivet/pot rest which simply sat on top and has been lost. This would support vessels at a suitable height above the burner and would accomodate different sized vessels. Have a look at other ranges, preferably the more commercial utilatarian sort rather than the pretty domestic Swedish designs. It might be easier to make a replacement for the missing trivet/pot rest rather than make an entire replacement frame, also keeping the surviving parts of the stove original.
I would not use an O-ring in that place. The NRV needs to form a tight seal, and ill-fitting washers and damaged brass facings produce leaks. Use either a lead washer or one made from HDPE (ice-cream or milk container plastic). Cheers Tony
For a stove in that condition I would replace the rubber pip as they may look smooth but they must also be supple. Lot easier and safer to replace it now especially seeing that you have the check valve out.
Hello again. Various projects; welding up a thing to take pallets apart and canvas stretchers for an aspiring artist has got in the way of this. I’m hoping to order the required bits from the Fettlebox but, it is tricky to order parts for an unknown item. Although I’m a fan of pressure stoves, I haven’t ever really dug too far into their inner workings. Take the NRV for example. I assume a No 96 would have a smaller one than a No 97 or a larger 2 pint variant? This is the one I have got out of the stove: Not quite fully done up but almost there! 30mm or thereabouts. Do I need to replace the whole lot or just the little rubber pip I suspect: I take it that is the rubber thing inside the brass piece second from the right? I need some lead packing as well. That needs to be the same size to fit over the cylinder and threads on the left? The knowledge on here is astonishing. Thanks for freely giving it out.
1. The NRVs of the Primus (and similar) stoves are a standard size. 2. It is probably best to replace the moulded pip with the older style of a brass cup that hold a small pip. What you need is available from The FettleBox. Cheers Tony
